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I'm currently shooting noble shells and would like to try reloading.

I'm looking to buy the mec grabber. I can get hulls for free at my range, but I want to know if I can use my noble hulls to reload? On top of that, what are the general guide lines or reloading hulls? What can/can't you use?

Any other help would be appreciated,
-Barry-
 

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I use to always use Winchester's "AA" Hull, with it's Unibody plastic molded construction, it was ideal for reloading. Recently they switched to a two piece pastic shell with a powder base piece that is inside the main plastic piece of the hull. I tried a couple but they seamed to have a problem seating the wad pass the edge of the base piece of plastic hull. Remington has a fairly new shell called the "STS" and "Nitro" shell that is unibody constructed and reloads great, even seams to reload the same shell more aften than even with the old winchester "AA" hull. Neadless to say, I have switched over to the Remington STS or Nitro shell and it is a great looking shell once reloaded...you can't tell the reload from a shell that has never been fired and that is new. I know that Winchester has a fix for it at their web site, I should have tried it, but the Remington's looked so great after reloading a few, I decided to switch over completely.
 
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Jacobi said:
I'm currently shooting noble shells and would like to try reloading.

I'm looking to buy the mec grabber. I can get hulls for free at my range, but I want to know if I can use my noble hulls to reload? On top of that, what are the general guide lines or reloading hulls? What can/can't you use?

Any other help would be appreciated,
-Barry-
The Noble line of shells can be safely reloaded using recipes for Federals as both are of the straight wall design. You will need to decide on a basic recipe to try and make adjustments, so pick something that is in the middle of the ranges given. By that I mean first decide on a shot weight then pick a middle range powder charge. Also pick a recipe which uses primers and wads which will be readily accessible to you. I have a friend who picks up the Noble Sport shells at an Air force base skeet range, loads them once and lets them fly. This way he has no hull cost (other than his time) and does not have to worry about the number of times they have been reloaded. His recipe uses Rex powder, Cheddite primers and Gualdoni wads-all available at really good prices from Grafs in MO. He claims to get by for right at $2 per box for 1 oz loads. As far as other lines of hulls for reloading, you can load about anything currently available with the exception of some shells (like BP) that have a collapsible base wad. You do need the proper data for them, however, so do not attempt to reload anything without these values. The quality of your reloads will depend as much on the adjustments you make to your loader as it will from the quality of the components used. With experience you will find that some hulls last longer, some look better and some shoot better. If you are like most of the rest of us who reload you will soon tire of adjusting your loader and stick with a few basic recipes for a few specific hulls. Today, the majority of reloaders use either the AA or the STS hulls, and for the most part, most machines will load similar recipes in either w/out having to make any adjustments. However, if you were to have to purchase these hulls once fired you would lose some of the cost savings associated with reloading. If you decide to try reloading with the Nobles like you mentioned, then I would recommend setting everything up for them and sticking with them exclusively. Load them, shoot them, keep track of the number of times they are reloaded and throw them away after 3 or 4 times. If you need to shoot new shells for a special event or something, then buy new Nobles and save them for reloading. Only by patterning and shooting at your chosen sport will you be able to tell whether you like the loads you choose. Most of us strive for a light recoil load of a reasonable (1150-1200 fps)speed that patterns well with a given shot size.
I also look for something which burns cleanly leaving little residue in my guns. My pet load runs me around $2.75 per box.
This is quite a savings in the run of a year IF I don't take into consideration the amount of time I spend reloading. Too, there is the space taken up by the equipment, stored shells, supplies, etc. You will also have an occasional repair to make on your loader as it will eventually need some maintenance.
 

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Are metal base hulls OK to reload? Like the winchester Super X? What receipe should I follow? I haven't seen one for them.....maybe I just answered my own question. Anybody?

Glenn
 

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According to "Reloading for Shotgunners" by Fachler and McPherson (DBI Books) on page 40:
"Winchester makes a very basic compression-formed hull known as the AA. They also make the AA in a high-brass model call the Super-X. Upland and AA Handicap are also the same hull."
Can anyone else contribute any knowledge to this statement to either confirm or refute it? I too am interested in the subject as these hulls are reasonably easy to acquire since very few reloaders use them. If this is the same hull as the venerable AA, can I assume that AA recipes apply to the Super-X and Upland hulls?
Charlie Nash
 

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The Hodgdon book as a receipe for the 3" Winchester Super X hulls but not for 2 3/4. Just dunno, maye someone in the know will pipe up.

If I'm not mistaken, the Federal gold shell have a metal base(not brass) and are reloadable, right?

Glenn
 
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I RELOAD THE METAL BASED FEDERAL SHELL'S WITH NO PROBLEM. YOU MUST INSPECT THE CASE CAREFULLY BEFORE EACH RELOAD AS THEY ARE NOT AS STRONG AND ARE PRONED TO RUST. THE SAME GOES FOR THE CHEEP WINCHESTER. THE HULL IS ONLY GOOD FOR 2-4 LOADS AND THEN IT'S TRASH.
THERE ARE RECEIPIES OUT THERE YOU WILL JUST HAVE TO LOOK. I WOULD GIVE YOU SOME OF MINE, BUT YOU WILL WANT TO SEEK A RELIABLE SOURCE. YOU SHOULD NEVER TRUST SOME RECEIPE YOU GET FROM ANOTHER PERSON.

JEREMY
 

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You may find that you can inquire about load data for a certain hull, from the shell maker IE; noble. Powder manufactures, also have some data. It might take a bit of digging, but someone out there on the WWW must have some data. If you do not get a tried and true load from a reliable source, I would not "experiment" with them. You may wreck your gun or worse! :roll: Safety, over savings!

I have collected hulls that I have not bothered to try and find load data for at this point, as I have about 2000 AA's, a mixture of Federal Gold Medals, and STS hulls I can reload first. I would love to get a good safe recipe of the Clever Mirage hulls though, if someone has one for 12ga 1-1/8 oz loads. I could get thousands of these if I wanted to pick them up at the range. They are a nice looking hull, that come out clean, after being once fired. They do have a seperate basewad though, which when shooting a pump in doubles, or Sporting clays, worries me a bit. :?

If you are serious about reloading, you may want to buy a "good" multi-reloadable shell in the first place. Buy a few flats of factory loaded STS, shoot them, save the hulls. If you have 500 to start with, and you can reload them 5-10 times each, the cost of buying the new shells is reduced, with every load you make up. You are saving roughly a dollar with every box you reload, over having to buy the once fired hulls....
 
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Does anyone know if Rio shells can be reloaded. The hulls look like Fiocchis, but I have read that Rio manufactures all the components they use. Thus, I presume they cannot be reloaded as Fiocchi hulls. But I have not been able to find any data on reloading Rios at all.
 

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Charlie Nash said:
According to "Reloading for Shotgunners" by Fachler and McPherson (DBI Books) on page 40:
"Winchester makes a very basic compression-formed hull known as the AA. They also make the AA in a high-brass model call the Super-X. Upland and AA Handicap are also the same hull."
Can anyone else contribute any knowledge to this statement to either confirm or refute it? I too am interested in the subject as these hulls are reasonably easy to acquire since very few reloaders use them. If this is the same hull as the venerable AA, can I assume that AA recipes apply to the Super-X and Upland hulls?
Charlie Nash
Yes, they are the same hull as long as your sure they are of the compression formed variety, as winchester has also produced Super-X polyformed hulls,you can be reasonably assured your dealing with a compression formed Super-X if it has a really smooth exterior, looks rather tough and thick, and the inside looks not quite square in the bottom,with the lack of a visible basewad a polyformed Super-X will usually have really light ribbing, and seem thinner and weaker, and look quite square in the base with a square basewad.
 
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