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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I'm new here and relatively new to sluggunning. I have always rifle/muzzleloader hunted and mounted my own scopes with very few problems. Ditto for shooting and sighting in.

This summer, I got a Mossberg 935 deer/turkey combo for deerturkey hunting in Southern MI and bear hunting here in the UP. I have had nothing but problems so far. Here is a synopsis of my experience thus far.

1. No shells would eject, no matter the size or load. Sent it in and all is well now.

2. I tried Leupold QRW rings on the Weaver 417M (for the Model 835) base, which fit fine with proper length screws. The base metal, near the cross-slots, became "smudged" or "burred" I assume due to recoil. Is this because the rings are steel and the base aluminum?

3. I then bought a B-Square base/rings specifically for the 935. Saddle went on fine, but rings wouldn't hold tight and I ended up with stripped screws. Put the Leupold QRW rings back on and am seeing a bit of the same damage to the cross-slots on the base. The Leupold QRW rings look fine.

4. Throughout all of this, the result has been poor groups at 100 yards with various factory slug loads. I'll get one shot hitting 5" to the right of the bullseye, then the next one will hit 6" to the left. Then the next could be somewhere near dead-center, the next 5" low. I even let the barrel cool for 15 minutes between shots.

Any advice? Could it be the scope (Nikon Monarch 2-7x32) or is it likely the mounts? I have another scope with Burris Weaver-style rings I can try.

Could it be steel rings mounted on aluminum bases on a hard kicker = aluminum deformation = inaccuracy?

Is a cantilever-style mount somehow superior?

My rifles have always shot well with receiver-mounted bases, so I can't imagine why this gun shoots so poorly, other than the things I have mentioned.

I have spent over $100 on slugs and almost $100 on mounting systems and am still right where I started. Those premium slugs aren't cheap as you all know!

Sorry so long, but I just didn't want to leave out any details.

PS - I am not afraid of recoil, so that is not an issue. I get sub-1" groups with my Ultra Light Arms 300 Win Mag, which kicks harder than this 12 gauge.
 

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DCC said:
Could it be steel rings mounted on aluminum bases on a hard kicker = aluminum deformation = inaccuracy? quote]

They will certainly bend, which is why I would recommend using the steel Warne bases if they are available for your model...However, I do not think they would cause a substantial accuracy issue unless you removed and reinstalled them on a regular basis.

Also..just because you you shoot well with a hard recoiling rifle does not mean you will necessarily shoot well with a hard recoil shotgun...the difference in fps of the projectiles means any any issues with your shooting technique are magnified 10 fold with the slug gun vs a rifle...

Jc
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
jcchartboy said:
They will certainly bend, which is why I would recommend using the steel Warne bases if they are available for your model...However, I do not think they would cause a substantial accuracy issue unless you removed and reinstalled them on a regular basis.

Also..just because you you shoot well with a hard recoiling rifle does not mean you will necessarily shoot well with a hard recoil shotgun...the difference in fps of the projectiles means any any issues with your shooting technique are magnified 10 fold with the slug gun vs a rifle...

Jc
Not too many companies are making mounts for this gun. I think I'll have to get aluminum bases and rings. Hopefully that'll do it.

I see your point on the rifle vs. slug recoil/velocity topic. But every shot I took looked and felt great. I use a good table with a Sight-Vise to help ensure steadiness.

Thanks a bunch for your reply!
 

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When you mount the rings to the base. Try some blue loctite on the threads and let dry over night befor shooting. Make sure you use the right ring for the base. If they are different they will not tighten up right and will not hold. Loctite all of the screws and let it dry befor you shoot. Make sure you have everything tight start at the base then rings to base then scope to rings. Then work on sigting it in! Good luck and good shooting! :wink: :D
 

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First thing I would check is the lockup between the barrel and receiver. When you grab the barrel in one hand and the receiver in the other and can create movement, a receiver mount may never be accurate as the barrel will change position relative to the scope each shot. Do a search on pinning the barrel to see how to remedy this.

Which slugs have you tried? I have found my mossberg barrel does not like the fast stuff and have settled on the Remington Copper solids or the Hastings 2 3/4 inch mags. Each will do better than 3 inches at 100 in this gun. That is all I hope for in a slug gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
vabowhntr said:
First thing I would check is the lockup between the barrel and receiver. When you grab the barrel in one hand and the receiver in the other and can create movement, a receiver mount may never be accurate as the barrel will change position relative to the scope each shot. Do a search on pinning the barrel to see how to remedy this.

Which slugs have you tried? I have found my mossberg barrel does not like the fast stuff and have settled on the Remington Copper solids or the Hastings 2 3/4 inch mags. Each will do better than 3 inches at 100 in this gun. That is all I hope for in a slug gun.
Thanks for the reply.

I have tried Lightfield 2.75" (1500? fps MV), Federal/Barnes 2.75" Sabots (1900 fps MV) and Brenneke 3" (1550? fps MV). All of them were horribly inconsistent.
 

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The shooter is the issue. Learn how to shoot a slug gun. It is not like shooting a rifle where the bullet travels so fast that it has already left the barrel by the time the barrel starts to jump thus making it so you can let the barrel jump without affecting the shot. On a slug gun you have to control the barrel jump because the slug is still in the barrel when the muzzle starts to jump. Make sure to hold the forearm solidly and follow through on your shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
gottergk said:
The shooter is the issue. Learn how to shoot a slug gun. It is not like shooting a rifle where the bullet travels so fast that it has already left the barrel by the time the barrel starts to jump thus making it so you can let the barrel jump without affecting the shot. On a slug gun you have to control the barrel jump because the slug is still in the barrel when the muzzle starts to jump. Make sure to hold the forearm solidly and follow through on your shot.
I used a Sight Vise in addition to gripping the forearm and/or holding the barrel from the top. And I do know how to shoot. I ended up borrowing my buddy's Browning Gold for the 3rd year in a row and I've consistently gotten 2" or less groups with that at 100 yards over the past 3 years.

Also, my Knight 50 caliber should shoot roughly the same as a slug gun, shouldn't it? The projectiles are the same or nearly the same, depending on the slug load. The velocity is about the same. Anyway, I get decent groups with that Knight, too.

I wish it were as simple as my incompetence, then I could just have someone else shoot for me and I would have zero problems. :roll:
 
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