G
Guest
·I got a little excited today and cleaned the bolt on the 1300. I found a washer on the floor. Did that come from the front of the firing pin spring where the pin goes through the bolt and bolt carrier group? Does that make sense?
Winchester 1300 Bolt assembly
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187 Posts
Yeah, that makes sense. I've got a 20 Ga. 1300, and I've learned it's just a skosh different than the 12 Ga. I was looking at one of those yellow takedown manuals you see at Gander Mountain (for instance) the other day, and when I was looking at the exploded diagram it showed a washer in the bolt assembly that I didn't recognize. Although the manual did not specify the gauge of 1300 used for reference, I came to the conclusion that the washer in question was only used in the 12 Ga. Actually, the firing pin looked different too.
So, I look around the Internet to see if can find a diagram for you to look at. Unfortunately the owners manual available on the Winchester site doesn't have a thing to say or a picture of thar washer, not even in the area where they describe the breech bolt takedown & reassembly... :roll:
Okay, so here's the only diagram I can find on the net, although I don't think it shows the washer that I saw in that yellow takedown manual (I don't think). I just can't tell whether this diagram is a 20 Ga. or a 12 Ga. I have a feeling it's a 20 Ga. though:
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This image can be found here:
http://www.usracmfg.com/M1300_Drawing.htm
With a parts list here:
http://www.usracmfg.com/Model1300_price.htm
I wonder if anybody out there has a copy of the yellow Winchester 1300 takedown manual that could look in the back at the exploded diagram and explain exactly where that washer goes for certain?
So, I look around the Internet to see if can find a diagram for you to look at. Unfortunately the owners manual available on the Winchester site doesn't have a thing to say or a picture of thar washer, not even in the area where they describe the breech bolt takedown & reassembly... :roll:
Okay, so here's the only diagram I can find on the net, although I don't think it shows the washer that I saw in that yellow takedown manual (I don't think). I just can't tell whether this diagram is a 20 Ga. or a 12 Ga. I have a feeling it's a 20 Ga. though:
This image can be found here:
http://www.usracmfg.com/M1300_Drawing.htm
With a parts list here:
http://www.usracmfg.com/Model1300_price.htm
I wonder if anybody out there has a copy of the yellow Winchester 1300 takedown manual that could look in the back at the exploded diagram and explain exactly where that washer goes for certain?
G
Guest
·Thanks, that is a hugh help. In fact I have it in wrong. Reckon it was a good thing I didn't shot the darn thing.
Thanks a bunch and have a great day.
John
Thanks a bunch and have a great day.
John
G
Guest
·Nortonics, how do you like your Winchester 1300 in 20 gauge?
The reason I ask is because most seem to have a 12 gauge and I'm new to shotguns but plan on purchasing a Defender 1300 in 20 gauge because I figure it will be better for the wife and I. I'm a firm believer that you need to practice with what you hopefully will never have to use but if I do I want it to be second nature. I've only ever shot one shotgun, a 12 gauge and because of medical reason I couldn't go out and fire many times so I figure the 20 gauge will give adequate protection and small enough that I can fire it as often as I want.
Thoughts, ideas appreciated.
The reason I ask is because most seem to have a 12 gauge and I'm new to shotguns but plan on purchasing a Defender 1300 in 20 gauge because I figure it will be better for the wife and I. I'm a firm believer that you need to practice with what you hopefully will never have to use but if I do I want it to be second nature. I've only ever shot one shotgun, a 12 gauge and because of medical reason I couldn't go out and fire many times so I figure the 20 gauge will give adequate protection and small enough that I can fire it as often as I want.
Thoughts, ideas appreciated.
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187 Posts
I really like the 1300 20 gauge. I had been keeping my eyes open for a decent, used 20 gauge at all the stores. Wanted something inexpensive, yet something that was well built. I was really hoping to find something that was in less than perfect shape, and the price to reflect that. Found that 1300 one day at Gander Mountain, back on a shelf sort of hidden from view, back where the "beaters" were at. As the story goes, it came home with me for $180.
After a complete dismantlement & cleaning (man, did it ever need it too - I swear the original owner NEVER cleaned the packing grease out of the trigger assembly). But ya know what? Better over lubed than under lubed, for sure! After repairing the slide arm, re-lubricating and reassembling the thing the action is absolutely butter smooth! 8) I am actually quite super pleased with it now. The bore, the bluing, the wood - it's all in incredibly excellent condition. Even came with the original pair of extended Win chokes - modified & improved cylinder. Dang thing even has a very substantial/decent factory recoil pad too!
As for shooting - it's quite a pleasure! I've used it numerous times now in 16 yard Trap, and the felt recoil is hardly felt at all! I could shoot 500 rounds with this gun in a single day and never, EVER, complain of fatigue. That's with 2-3/4" target loads though - the gun will chamber 3" rounds too, of which I've never tried. Patterned it with the modified choke too - shoots absolutely flat across the rib, and on-center.
And let me tell ya, if you're feeling pretty cocky about your Trap skills with a 12 gauge, just get out there with a 20 gauge and see how ya do! It definitely ain't no cake walk! This little 20 gauge has provided me with a much greater understanding of my son who consistently shoots in the middle teen with a different 20 gauge - man, middle teens with a 20 gauge at 16 yard Trap is GREAT shooting! I swear he'd be close to a perfect game if/when he's able to shoulder a 12 gauge... 8)
As far as my opinion on stopping power of this firearm, it would most certainly do the trick - especially if chambered with 3" loads.
After a complete dismantlement & cleaning (man, did it ever need it too - I swear the original owner NEVER cleaned the packing grease out of the trigger assembly). But ya know what? Better over lubed than under lubed, for sure! After repairing the slide arm, re-lubricating and reassembling the thing the action is absolutely butter smooth! 8) I am actually quite super pleased with it now. The bore, the bluing, the wood - it's all in incredibly excellent condition. Even came with the original pair of extended Win chokes - modified & improved cylinder. Dang thing even has a very substantial/decent factory recoil pad too!
As for shooting - it's quite a pleasure! I've used it numerous times now in 16 yard Trap, and the felt recoil is hardly felt at all! I could shoot 500 rounds with this gun in a single day and never, EVER, complain of fatigue. That's with 2-3/4" target loads though - the gun will chamber 3" rounds too, of which I've never tried. Patterned it with the modified choke too - shoots absolutely flat across the rib, and on-center.
And let me tell ya, if you're feeling pretty cocky about your Trap skills with a 12 gauge, just get out there with a 20 gauge and see how ya do! It definitely ain't no cake walk! This little 20 gauge has provided me with a much greater understanding of my son who consistently shoots in the middle teen with a different 20 gauge - man, middle teens with a 20 gauge at 16 yard Trap is GREAT shooting! I swear he'd be close to a perfect game if/when he's able to shoulder a 12 gauge... 8)
As far as my opinion on stopping power of this firearm, it would most certainly do the trick - especially if chambered with 3" loads.
Thanks Nortonics. Appreciate the input. As for the trap shooting I can't relate but it sounds as though it works well for that also.
I've been looking around also trying to find a used one but I got impatient and went and ordered one this morning. Cost me around $290. Seemed a little high but you know supply and demand. I looked all over the local area and couldn't find anyone that had one in stock. They all say that they sell as soon as they get them in. The place I ordered from went ahead and ordered three more when ordering mine.
Looking forward to getting it, doing a good cleaning and heading out to the tree line. Any advise on initial cleaning and break in? Again, I'm new to firearms and I'm only familiar with handguns.
I've been looking around also trying to find a used one but I got impatient and went and ordered one this morning. Cost me around $290. Seemed a little high but you know supply and demand. I looked all over the local area and couldn't find anyone that had one in stock. They all say that they sell as soon as they get them in. The place I ordered from went ahead and ordered three more when ordering mine.
Looking forward to getting it, doing a good cleaning and heading out to the tree line. Any advise on initial cleaning and break in? Again, I'm new to firearms and I'm only familiar with handguns.
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187 Posts
Great! I think you'll really enjoy it!
Yes, I do have a couple of things to point out that might make your life a little easier. Obviously, read the manual from end to end, then go after a complete take-down and cleaning right away. Do the full take-down too, including removing the trigger assembly. Of course, leave the trigger assembly intact, but do clean out all traces of packing grease from it. I find that a spray can of Remington Action Cleaner, along with Q-tips and old tooth brushes does a great job. After a final spray down, let it dry, then give the entire assembly a light shot of gun oil, like Remington's Rem Oil spray.
Clean the barrel too - shouldn't be too dirty obviously, but you'll want to run some patches of Hoppe's cleaner down there, followed by some scrubbing with a brass bristle bore brush. Couple of clean patches afterwords to get the crud out, along with a final patch lubed with a little oil and it's all set. Oh, be sure and remove your choke at each cleaning too - clean up the threads on both the choke and the barrel, then give the choke threads a quick shot of Rem Oil.
Do dismantle the bolt assembly along with the firing pin assembly as the manual indicates too. It's so dang easy to do. Go ahead and clean all the parts with some Hoppe's and follow it up with a light shot of Rem Oil.
Now, one REALLY important thing about the 1300 20 gauge (as I mentioned earlier). The bolt assembly MUST be removed from the opening provided when the trigger assembly is removed. It will actually come out of the bottom of the action. NEVER try and remove the bolt assembly from the front of the action assembly by yanking on the forearm/slide-arm assembly! Doing so WILL bend or break the small pin mounted into the inside of the frame that guides the ejector rod (part #24). When you go to remove the bolt assembly, make sure and look down there at that ejector rod and look at how it's mounted - when you remove the bolt those parts will free up and drop out of the action. Easy to put 'em back in, if ya see how they went in to begin with.
And finally, an oddity (at least I find it odd). As the manual states, the proper stages of reassembly is to attach the barrel & forearm/slide-arm, bolt assembly, THEN the trigger assembly. You can do it the opposite, but doing so is more difficult because of the way the way the tip of that ejector rod sticks out of the breech area - kinda' makes getting the barrel installed a little difficult.
Okay, I'll shaddup' now... :wink:
Yes, I do have a couple of things to point out that might make your life a little easier. Obviously, read the manual from end to end, then go after a complete take-down and cleaning right away. Do the full take-down too, including removing the trigger assembly. Of course, leave the trigger assembly intact, but do clean out all traces of packing grease from it. I find that a spray can of Remington Action Cleaner, along with Q-tips and old tooth brushes does a great job. After a final spray down, let it dry, then give the entire assembly a light shot of gun oil, like Remington's Rem Oil spray.
Clean the barrel too - shouldn't be too dirty obviously, but you'll want to run some patches of Hoppe's cleaner down there, followed by some scrubbing with a brass bristle bore brush. Couple of clean patches afterwords to get the crud out, along with a final patch lubed with a little oil and it's all set. Oh, be sure and remove your choke at each cleaning too - clean up the threads on both the choke and the barrel, then give the choke threads a quick shot of Rem Oil.
Do dismantle the bolt assembly along with the firing pin assembly as the manual indicates too. It's so dang easy to do. Go ahead and clean all the parts with some Hoppe's and follow it up with a light shot of Rem Oil.
Now, one REALLY important thing about the 1300 20 gauge (as I mentioned earlier). The bolt assembly MUST be removed from the opening provided when the trigger assembly is removed. It will actually come out of the bottom of the action. NEVER try and remove the bolt assembly from the front of the action assembly by yanking on the forearm/slide-arm assembly! Doing so WILL bend or break the small pin mounted into the inside of the frame that guides the ejector rod (part #24). When you go to remove the bolt assembly, make sure and look down there at that ejector rod and look at how it's mounted - when you remove the bolt those parts will free up and drop out of the action. Easy to put 'em back in, if ya see how they went in to begin with.
And finally, an oddity (at least I find it odd). As the manual states, the proper stages of reassembly is to attach the barrel & forearm/slide-arm, bolt assembly, THEN the trigger assembly. You can do it the opposite, but doing so is more difficult because of the way the way the tip of that ejector rod sticks out of the breech area - kinda' makes getting the barrel installed a little difficult.
Okay, I'll shaddup' now... :wink:
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