The best way is a walnut spacer that comes close to matching. Permanently attach it to the stock, contour it to match, then stain and finish to match. The best chance of a not "sore thumb".

 

Several adjustable recoil pads on the market these days as well. Agreed that a walnut spacer and competent wood finisher is probly best tho

 

Walnut spacer would be the best idea, but you could also use a 1" kickeez pad with glued on spacers to make up the length. You can then grind the pad and spacers for the profile of the stock.
Doesn't look as pretty but its functional.

 

This will weigh a bunch and destroy the balance of the gun. Grafting on wood is the best option.

 

It's a woodworking project. Grab yourself an appropriate sized piece of walnut, maybe from DCW Hardwoods, practice cutting it up and putting it back together again..

The folks at DCW may even be able to recommend someone.

 

Here’s your guy, but he’s not cheap. The blend will be invisible.

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www.marklarsongunart.com

 

Keep in mind this is a Superlight field gun that probably weighs 5-6lb depending on gauge. Thick recoil pads, spacers, or LOP adjusters aren't appropriate for this specific task as they would add SIGNIFICANT weight to the back of the gun making it extremely backheavy.

A walnut extension can/should be hollowed out, at least to match the hollowing of the stock, so it returns it to as close as original configuration as possible.

This would work assuming it's a 12ga and you're dating of 1980 is accurate: Browning Citori Butt Stock - Sporter - Grade I - Type 2 - 12 Gauge

Possibly this one as well if your gun is a bit newer: Browning Citori 12GA English Field Stock, Satin

 

Mine is 1 20 gauge. I called Midwest Gunworks a few day back since that is who the Browning customer service mentioned but they do not have any Browning Type II stocks in stock.

 

One trick is to put a thin "blackline spacer" between the existing butt and the extension. You'll never match the grain perfectly, so make the extension look like its intentional. I did this on a Luigi Franchi AL48 20 gauge someone cut for a youngster.

Because it's a lightweight gun with a light weight stock, I used a bit of basswood I had laying around, glued a bit of black micarta on the end and wet at it. I think it looks okay, even though I did not even bother to laminate a piece together to match grain direction!

(Note, I did, but I screwed up laminating hardwood with a big hollow, and then decided it didn't matter anyhow and used the basswood. I think it came out nicer, anyhow!)

I used by butt pad fitting jig and went to town with the belt sander. Easy as doing a buttpad.

Here is an extension by Ricardo (not mine, I am short)

Putting that black line there is a the way to go. Otherwise, there are artists who can paint a fake wood grain to match, but that is a very high-dollar task because they are highly skilled and it takes days to do.

If I can to it, anyone can.

 

I extended one myself, Walnut here was a little hard to source so couldn't be too fussy on the match but it works and is functional and I've seen a lot worse matches on some older guns getting around. It's been a couple of years now and a few more coats of BLO since the photo and it seems to be blending in a little better with age or maybe my eyesight is getting worse

A couple of screws thru the back to hold it tight with some gorilla glue and bore a hole thru for the stockbolt

 

The best way is another stock, 3" is a lot to add on but it can be done if you are really attached to the stock.
The two examples Skeet_man posted would generally be less expensive than having a gunsmith execute a perfect match on the existing stock.

 

Skeetman knows his stuff!

 

When I was a kid I worked at the local grocery store. An old timer sent me looking for a pallet stretcher, I never found it but I bet its just what you need…….if you can find one

 

Contact Doug Carpenter here for a new stock made to your requirements

 

If you would like a 3d printed spacer you can trace and scan both the pad and wood surfaces and I can print one for you. I could add some pitch or cast while we are at it if you know what you want. Message me offline if interested.

 

I have done several ( 2 shotguns and 1 rifle) by adding a piece as in post 11 above. They came out very good. Was able to somewhat match the color and grain with the new walnut piece. One can "shade" the grain a little with an air brush and some stain. I really think the applied piece looks better than spacers or wood with the grain gaining the wrong way. I understand it was pretty common for English gunsmiths to do this kind of work. Like Skeet Man said, you can make the gun "feel" right again. And...a Superlight is probably worth paying for a restock if you want to go that way. Me, I would like it fine with the conversation piece wood addition.

 

Yes, but a Kick-Eez pad weighs about twice as much as a Cervelatti pad and that was what was originally recommended. Lots of different ways to do this.

 

I doubt a Microcell and spacers would be less than wood and a plastic plate (returning it to original configuration).

I actually (probably) have all the components. A OEM Browning plate is 1.65oz, an unground microcell is 2.45, so even ground the microcell will be slightly heavier than the plate since you're not going to grind away 1/3 of the pad. I also have a sheet of PVC foam which I'm relatively confident is the same thing the Kickeez spacers are made of. It's 9.55oz for 32 cu/in, or 0.3oz/cu/in. American walnut is very nearly identical.

So there is an exceptionally high likelihood that a microcell and spacers would be the same weight or a hair heavier, but look infinitely worse.

You COULD save a bit of weight by going with a lower density wood (claro and euro walnut would be lighter, as would a myriad of other species), although chances of blending it in would go down dramatically, conversely 2-3" of non-matching wood (as long as it's stained to at least the same level of darkness) would still look better than the equivalent amount of black spacers.