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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys.
I sincerely hope your T day was safe and had lots of food.

I have a model 12 and 97 that have been in my family for as long as I can remember, (over 60 yrs.). They have been given to me by my dad and I am now giving them to my son.

I have some time on my hands now and would like to refinish the wood on both guns including stripping and complete refinish.

Do any of you have ideas on how best to accomplish this or perhaps have a reference that will be a guide to follow?

If it is too much for answering on the forum as a post reply then perhaps you could Pm and help me with this.

I saw a model 12 that another fellow had redone and it was absolutely beautiful.
I have the guy to do the rebluing and have seen his work (lots of it) and know it to be top drawer all the way. In fact some of the best bluing I have ever seen done.

But I know nothing of wood refurbishing and would like to take the time and do it right.

Any help or recommendations would be very much appreciated.

UF
 

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There's a huge amount of information on this topic scattered in recent posts on the gunsmithing and restoration forum. A complete answer would be VERY long esp since you have no woodfinishing background. In essence, there isn't any difference between finishing a gunstock and a piece of fine furniture. You might find it helpful to look thru a book on furniture finishing - there are dozens of options.

Keep one thing in mind whever finish you decide upon - it takes time, time, time. Wood finishing cannot be rushed and beginners usually make haste and that's a fatal error
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks pumpster.
I had not thought in terms of wood refinishing and it being the same as another or any real fine piece of wood.
You are absolutely right about references in that respect and I will begin to look at some of the posts as well as other wood finishing books and topics.

I am new to wood work but I am also very patient and quite finiky when it comes to detail on everything that I set out to accomplish.

I am actually looking forward to this as I say I saw the end result of a very nice job done to a model 12. It is the one that made me decide that I not only want to pass these guns on, but would like to make them even more desirable.

When my son gets here I will have him show me how to post pics and perhaps I can show a before and after shot or two.

Appreciate the heads-up.

UF
 

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FD, I was like you time on my hands and always wanted to try an refinish gun wood. The other posters gave good advice. You can find alot of info on how to this forum. I found this ( About.com:Hunting/Shooting by Russ Chastain. He gives simple and clear directions. I dove in and step by step ended up wlth a very nice finish. If knew how would post pic.
 

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"Keep one thing in mind whever finish you decide upon - it takes time, time, time. Wood finishing cannot be rushed and beginners usually make haste and that's a fatal error."

Frank

Please heed this advice, please. Finishing a stock and forearm are a matter of taking the time needed, don't rush anything. Getting the old finish off will probably involve a chemical finish remover, steel wool, and small brushes. Go slow and easy or even 0000 steel wool will round corners, edges, and cut wood. :shock:

When you decide on the new finish, you have to go even slower. I have one favorite 410 that has several coats of pure raw tung oil. Each coat was given three to four days to cure before the next coat was applied. There is a difference between dry and cure. Dry may happen in a few hours, cure takes longer. :? Final cure(called polymerazation sp) may take 10 to 12 weeks. :shock:

You have two potentially beautiful guns. Just take your time 8)
 

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After you have the wood stripped down and as smooth as you can get it with fine steel wool, Formsby's tung oil finish is a fine furniture finish that works well on gun stocks. It is a tung oil based finish with a bit of solvent in it, which I think helps with penetration. You apply it as a thin layer with your fingertip as was the practice with GB Linspeed years ago. Each coat feels dry as soon as you apply it, but it needs to sit overnight between coats to cure. any irregularities can be worked out with fine steel wool or 600 grit sandpaper between coats. Keep a tack rag handy to pick up any stray fibers from the steel wool. You can build it up as deep as you like, one coat at a time, but keep each one thin. It gives the wood that color glow that only a good drying oil can do.

The finish is available at good hardware stores in pint cans with screw-on lid.
 
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