I have an older model 20 gauge 1100, that I cut off the stock some 30 years ago. Want to replace it with a recently purchased used stock. Looking at the stock bolt cap, it is slotted and has a hole in the center under which is a longitudinal pin that will depress about 3/8". It has been a long time since I took the stock off, and not wanting to tear anything up, (I have learned not to force things in my later life), what is the proper method to use in removing the stock bolt? I used the search feature to no avail, plus I looked up the schematic on the Remington web site, that was no help either. Any help would be appreciated.
worriedman
I gave up on ad hoc methods and bought a Remington Stock Bolt Wrench from, Brownells (?) for about 20 bucks.
My stock nut is smoot with only a slot through the head. I supose that a large bladed screw driver or similar device would work...but the tool makes it sooooo easy.
My stock nut is smoot with only a slot through the head. I supose that a large bladed screw driver or similar device would work...but the tool makes it sooooo easy.
Nick, a wide-blade screwdriver will work most of the time. There are a couple of problems with using one however. The nut is made of sintered metal. It tends to be a bit brittle, and it is installed by a 600 pound gorilla at the Remington factory. The screwdriver can break the nut in half. I have had that to happen. That is the reason that I bought the Brownells bit in the first place. With a spritz of Kroil on the nut and that drag-link socket down on what was left of the slot, I was able to get it off the tube. The second problem is that the screwdriver can slip out of the slot, or you may just miss the slot when you stick the screwdriver down that hole. If you then turn the screwdriver, it acts as a wedge and can split the stock. I have not done that, but I have seen one done.
For less than $25, I highly recommend buying the proper tool. From experience, I could have saved a lot of aggravation and the cost of the replacement nut if I had used one the first time. I now have an 1187 and 3 1100's, and that wrench gets used with pretty good regularity.
Clemson
For less than $25, I highly recommend buying the proper tool. From experience, I could have saved a lot of aggravation and the cost of the replacement nut if I had used one the first time. I now have an 1187 and 3 1100's, and that wrench gets used with pretty good regularity.
Clemson
Well, you can use whatever method you prefer to get the original slotted round nut off, but I would recommend replacing it once off with the newer hex headed version. I have had to use an ancient huge flat bladed screwdriver and Kroil and a Cresent wrench on other people's more than once, but have never had to buy the tool. The original versions are not sintered metal that I have ever seen, unless they went to that right at the end before they switched over to the hex version, but I have never seen anyone revert to that with threaded fasteners.
The 11-87 and the 1100 are the same set up and indeed the same action spring.
The 11-87 and the 1100 are the same set up and indeed the same action spring.
OK tell me I'm crazy but this works:
Once you get the original bolt out, replace it with a threaded rod that fits. Usually a 1/4 or 5/16 will work. Screw the rod into the metal, re install the stock, a flat washer, a lock washer, and a nut. You can cut the threaded rod to length with a hack saw and tweak it with a bench grinder if needed to make the threads work on the cut end. Did this first with a Remington .22 rifle when I could not for the life of me get the bolt to re-thread once I took the stock off. It worked so well I've used the same technique on 2 or 3 shotguns since. It's so easy that it's my go-to option now.
Once you get the original bolt out, replace it with a threaded rod that fits. Usually a 1/4 or 5/16 will work. Screw the rod into the metal, re install the stock, a flat washer, a lock washer, and a nut. You can cut the threaded rod to length with a hack saw and tweak it with a bench grinder if needed to make the threads work on the cut end. Did this first with a Remington .22 rifle when I could not for the life of me get the bolt to re-thread once I took the stock off. It worked so well I've used the same technique on 2 or 3 shotguns since. It's so easy that it's my go-to option now.
But the 1100/11-87 doesn't have a threaded rod, it's a hollow tube with the action spring inside.
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