Reloads sounds like, probably mec600jr. Sounds like low brass is allowing rim to get squashed too flat, which usually gives light strikes.

Use micrometer to spec the thickness of low vs highbrass hulls head/ lip. Should be
.0576" with a -.0140" tolerance. So 0.436" minimum.

Might be something else, but we see threads here ALL THE TIME of guys oversmashiing their lip during resize and then getting failure to fire.

 

Common theme for 725's it seems, but never had a problem with the one i owned.

 

You may have tried this one already, But I have an '83 or so "skeet" Citori that plagued me with light strikes and I finally replaced it with a kit (JnP gun springs) many years ago. Looks like they are still around and the "kit" with two pins is only $50-60.

 

What press are you using to reload??
Steve

 

Sizemaster. I've even put a straight edge across the bottom of the shell to see if the primer is set too low and the primer is the same height as the rim of the hull and yes these are all reloads.

 

Two questions;
What is the measured protrusion of your lower firing pin? And, if you remove your barrel and drop in your reload, does it sit flush with the back of the barrel? (Should be flush to about .003-4" below flush)
If either situation are not correct, infrequent FTF can occur.
The remedy to start with is as discussed above. Make sure your re-sizing (too much) is not the culprit causing the shell to be TOO deep in the chamber. (excess headspace)
Once you resolve that, all thats left is pin protrusion.
I have corrected several shotguns with the issue you describe.
Maybe try this: take off the stock and use a dental pick or something to push the lower fireing pin through the breech face. Inertial pins should extend as much as .10" when pushed from behind. The return spring then pushes it back into the receiver after discharge. This system has to be smooth, no binding or hangups.
You would be surprised the number of new shotguns that I've "corrected" because of pin/return spring binding issues. Most often times, crud buildup or a piece of broken spring is found to be the culprit.
Good luck,
Kentuckycook

 

Be sure your lower firing pin isn't eroded. They're easy and cheap to replace.

 

Put the same hull in both barrels and check your head space.

Steve

 

It's a gun problem. Not an ammo problem. Brownings are notious for bottom firing pin issues. The bottom pin gets pitted and pierces primers. Once the pitting gets bad you will pierce all types of primers and shells. The angle and length of the bottom firing pin is the problem. Let someone else shoot the ammo out of a non Browning gun.

 

The firing pin is brand new. I just tried Kentuckycook's suggestion. It looks like I had my re-sized set too small and the shell was sitting about .008 below the face of the barrel, adjusted the size and now its only .004. Will try when it quits snowing in a few days and let you know.

 

Hi, I have over 15000 rds competing with my 725, not a problem yet. I ordered some more pins after hearing about this issue, and Browning gave me some and said don't use the Cheditte primed shells. I shoot Remington, Fiocchi and AA. Not a problem yet. Try 10 AAs in a row in the bottom and see what happens!

 

I've tried the JnP pins and spring before and it solved the problem for a while. As I said in the original post I only have the problem with low brass shells and only the bottom barrel. They are fine in the top barrel. I've been using Cheddite primers ever since you couldn't find Winchester and Remington primers priced themselves out the market over the last few years I don't think I've seen more than 5 or 6 pierced primers.