What Diameter is the metal around the base of the hull after you resize it? I am not talking about the rim diameter, but above the rim where the metal meets the plastic. You want it to be 0.807-0.809.
It is not unexpected for the sizer to gradually produce hulls that have not been resized enough. This would be due to accumulated wear throughout the press.

 

Not to dispute Curly as he is correct for most shotguns, the .807 to .809 will work fine.

However, for a problem gun, or one with an exceptionally tight chamber, a re-size setting of from .805 to .807 is often the better setting. Just DO NOT go below .805 as that can damage your collet, and should not be done.

Personally, I set mine no more than .806, and have never had a problem of any sort.

DLM

 

I dont reload on a Mec so I bought a Mec Super Sizer you have to resize these cheap hulls I had the same problem now they work fine. You have to resize after each reloading.

Posted using Outdoor Hub Campfire

 

Steel bases (on gun clubs) don't resize as well as brass bases. That's part of the problem. Even the brass-colored steel bases have the same problem.

 

New problem: Gun clubs have started sticking in the bottom barrel of my XT. Gun won't close and when I take the shell out, the base is mangled. It catches at the 3 o'clock position and tears the base. Any ideas? This may be one for Curly....
Guy

I had the same problem. It seems the hulls were not being sized enough. I increased how much the hulls were sized and the problem went away.

James

 

Not to dispute Curly as he is correct for most shotguns, the .807 to .809 will work fine.

However, for a problem gun, or one with an exceptionally tight chamber, a re-size setting of from .805 to .807 is often the better setting. Just DO NOT go below .805 as that can damage your collet, and should not be done.

Personally, I set mine no more than .806, and have never had a problem of any sort.

DLM

Your post is absolutely correct and I forgot that the possibility of a tighter than usual chamber occurring. Keep your eye on me, I will probably do the same thing next time. :wink: :lol:

 

How do you measure the .806" or .807" dimension on the collet - do you measure the collet with a vernier in the closed position, or do you measure the base of the sized hull?

(I always thought the base of the hull sprung back slightly after sizing.)

Just wondering - I want to make sure mine sizes correctly, and how to measure it right.

 

How do you measure the .806" or .807" dimension on the collet - do you measure the collet with a vernier in the closed position, or do you measure the base of the sized hull?

(I always thought the base of the hull sprung back slightly after sizing.)

Just wondering - I want to make sure mine sizes correctly, and how to measure it right.

Bob,
Just measure the re-sized hull after you have re-sized it. Shoot for approx .806 and leave it there. That should fit any gun on the planet.

DLM

 

I have never tried actually measuring the resizer. I don't actually care what it measures. I care what the diameter of the shell coming out of it is. For 12 gauge I adjust til I get shells coming out at 0.807-0.808. For me in my guns this has always worked. If I happened to get it set at 0.806 I would probably just call that good.

To the OP:
I am not sure what you might have for tools and equipment. If you have no way to actually measure the resized shells you might try an experiment: There is a large nut that fits around the resize collet (called the collet closer.) Turn this half a turn counterclockwise (when viewed from the top.) Resize a couple hulls and try them in your gun. I suspect they will drop right in. At this point some might say "problem solved." I would not. If this does allow them to drop in then what I would recommend is:
Get a dial caliper- they can be had for under $20.00
Follow Curly's picture guides to completely disassemble the resize mechanism
Clean thoroughly and lube with Super web grease
Reassemble and set the top of the collet flush with the adjacent table (or ever so slightly high)
Start adjusting the big nut around the outside of the collet (the collet closer)
Resize some shells, measure with your new caliper, and adjust til you get 0.806-0.808

This procedure works for all gauges. In the back of Lymans are drawings that show shell and chamber dimensions. Find the smallest permissible CHAMBER dimension and set your collet to produce hulls 2-3 thousandths under this. For 12 gauge the drawing shows 0.810 +0.005 - 0.000. This means no factory chambered gun should be any smaller than 0.810.

 

For 12 gauge the drawing shows 0.810 +0.005 - 0.000. This means no factory chambered gun should be any smaller than 0.810.

While I agree with you this is the way it should be, my new o/u and my fathers o/u (20 years old same brand) the bore on the barrels by the book are suppose to measure .727 +.020 -.000 both measure .725 by gage pins. Now I know most of you do not/will not go through this type of trouble but when we build our choke tubes we build them to each gun. That is the only reason I know this. Now my collet on my 9000 is factory set. They load into my O/U, my fathers O/U, both of my brothers pumps and both of my cousins pumps just fine but not my pump they are tight. It could be a bore that is not in tolerance. As an engineer and tool and die machinist it is something I feel that cannot be overlooked.

 

For 12 gauge the drawing shows 0.810 +0.005 - 0.000. This means no factory chambered gun should be any smaller than 0.810.

While I agree with you this is the way it should be, my new o/u and my fathers o/u (20 years old same brand) the bore on the barrels by the book are suppose to measure .727 +.020 -.000 both measure .725 by gage pins. Now I know most of you do not/will not go through this type of trouble but when we build our choke tubes we build them to each gun. That is the only reason I know this. Now my collet on my 9000 is factory set. They load into my O/U, my fathers O/U, both of my brothers pumps and both of my cousins pumps just fine but not my pump they are tight. It could be a bore that is not in tolerance. As an engineer and tool and die machinist it is something I feel that cannot be overlooked.

Spydyr Apples and oranges. We are speaking of CHAMBER size, while you are speaking of BORE size. Bore size in 12 ga. can range from .723 to .745, depending on manufacturer and the vintage of the gun. However the CHAMBER size MUST conform to SAAMI specs, which are .810 + .005/-.000. Bore size has nothing to do with this thread.

Yes, it is a known fact that actual bore size must be known to correctly choke the gun. One of the biggest problems I encounter is convincing shooters that the words Skeet, Imp Cyl., Light Mod, Mod, etc. are actually meaningless. The actual constriction is a measurement of bore diameter, minus choke exit diameter. Since bore diameters differ widely, alpha designations on choke tubes are more often than not, meaningless. Sometimes the Factory choke tubes are close, and sometimes not. Notoriously, they do not always follow the after market choke diameter standards, as is used by all major choke tube manufacturers. You must measure and do the math, or else you have no idea of exactly what you have.

DLM

 

For 12 gauge the drawing shows 0.810 +0.005 - 0.000. This means no factory chambered gun should be any smaller than 0.810.

While I agree with you this is the way it should be, my new o/u and my fathers o/u (20 years old same brand) the bore on the barrels by the book are suppose to measure .727 +.020 -.000 both measure .725 by gage pins. Now I know most of you do not/will not go through this type of trouble but when we build our choke tubes we build them to each gun. That is the only reason I know this. Now my collet on my 9000 is factory set. They load into my O/U, my fathers O/U, both of my brothers pumps and both of my cousins pumps just fine but not my pump they are tight. It could be a bore that is not in tolerance. As an engineer and tool and die machinist it is something I feel that cannot be overlooked.

Spydyr Apples and oranges. We are speaking of CHAMBER size, while you are speaking of BORE size. Bore size in 12 ga. can range from .723 to .745, depending on manufacturer and the vintage of the gun. However the CHAMBER size MUST conform to SAAMI specs, which are .810 + .005/-.000. Bore size has nothing to do with this thread.

Yes, it is a known fact that actual bore size must be known to correctly choke the gun. One of the biggest problems I encounter is convincing shooters that the words Skeet, Imp Cyl., Light Mod, Mod, etc. are actually meaningless. The actual constriction is a measurement of bore diameter, minus choke exit diameter. Since bore diameters differ widely, alpha designations on choke tubes are more often than not, meaningless. Sometimes the Factory choke tubes are close, and sometimes not. Notoriously, they do not always follow the after market choke diameter standards, as is used by all major choke tube manufacturers. You must measure and do the math, or else you have no idea of exactly what you have.

DLM

+1...

 

What is the recommended size for 20 ga? I believe these posts were for 12 ga.
Thanks!

 

What is the recommended size for 20 ga? I believe these posts were for 12 ga.
Thanks!

Easiest way to determine the proper re-size diameter is to measure a new, unfired factory shell. Then add .005 to that measurement and that will be your re-size setting.

It is almost never necessary to re-size all the way down to factory size. To do so will over stress the collet, and can damage it, necessitating replacement. A setting of .004 or .005 above Factory new diameter will suffice in most every gun I have ever seen.

DLM

 

Thanks DLM!

 

What is the recommended size for 20 ga? I believe these posts were for 12 ga.
Thanks!

Per the drawings in Lymans theSAAMI CHAMBER specs are:
12 gauge 0.810 +0.005 -0.000
16 gauge 0.745 +0.005 -0.000
20 gauge 0.6992 +0.005 -0.000
28 gauge 0.627 +0.005 -0.000
410 bore 0.478 +0.005 -0.000

Any factory chamber should be in this range, if not, it is not a SAAMI spec chamber. As noted by DLM, all bets are off on the bore in the barrel. There may be specs but there are lots of exceptions. "Over boring" is standard on most Browning guns.

Note that all of the dimensions listed have tolerances of +5 but -0. This means the chamber should be equal to or bigger than the dimension listed. If resized shells are 2-3 under the number listed, they should fit. This should be plenty small for any break open gun. If you happen to have a pump or auto with a particularly tight chamber, 4 thousandths sure won't hurt.

 

I just used my bore as an example is all.

Also I just measured sizes from collet and they measure .806, from my ring sizer they measure .804. Fresh fired from my O/U they measure .812 fresh fire from my pump they measure .807. What I suggested is a possibility is all.

Also this happened to my brother while he was loading on the 600 last night. The tube on the resizer worked its way loose like normal and smashed an AA rim and it would not chamber all the way. Can that happen using the collet sizer? Could something have caused the hull to not sit right and just tweaked the rim a bit? These are valid questions.

Only reason why I even said anything is because I have been trying to purposely duplicate the problem so I know how to fix it later.

 

Spydyr,
It only happens on a ring sizer. Set it too low and it will mash the case rims. Proper adjustment is the thickness of a nickel between the sizing ring and the press frame, with the handle fully down.

DLM

 

That answered those questions.