I use Renaissance wax on the shotgun furniture and metal.
Does a great job preventing finger marks on the furniture.

Wood looks really nice after the application.

 

Ditto

 

FYI, buy the 65ml size a little bit goes a long way. .I've got the 200ml size and I've had it for years and it's 3/4 full. I'll be in the grave and it won't be used up. Great stuff !

 

Thanks ruger for the tip.

 

Boiled linseed oil gives the best finish in my opinion but I like the traditional look

 

I've just used gun oil for over half a century.

 

Rubbing the hard wax into the checkering... how would I do that?
I use a linseed oil mix I made and renaissance wax. Renaissance wax is less odoriferous.
All of the "danish" oils are basically solvent (like turpentine), varnish (like interior polyurethane) and Linseed or Tung oil (very hard to get pure tung oil). Tru-oil and Timberluxe are variations in that basic formula.

Luthiers propbably use the fanciest stuff as if you think a $100,000 shotgun is expensive you should see a million dollar violin. Fine woodworkers know what they are doing, too.

For a boomstick, it boils down to natural vs synthetic, ease of application and how shiny you want the end result... bartop epoxy vs handrubbed look.

Try your stuff and get back to us. I bet it will work great.

 

Rubbing the hard wax into the checkering... how would I do that?
I use a linseed oil mix I made and renaissance wax. Renaissance wax is less odoriferous.

Maybe this will help explain the product, which is a liquid finish: rubiomonocoatusa.com. I’m looking for any previous experience with it or similar “hard wax” liquid furniture finishes. I appreciate the opinions on what others consider optimum finishes, but I’m pretty experienced with Truoil,Timberluxe, oil varnish mixes including my own, etc. Thanks

 

The only problem I see is all their products are tinted. IMO that dumbs down the natural grain of the wood.

It would likely protect well wrt to moisture, and wear/scratches, but is an interior product and may change with regular exposure to the sun.

 

Thanks painter, that’s helpful. I’m not certain but I believe they also make an nontinted version. If not I’m with you about tints.

 

I used this when I first got my DT-11 on a recommendation from a stock maker as this seals the wood and pretty much makes it waterproof and add's a bit of shine to it and I used the Renaissance a couple times a year just so shiny it up a tad. WATCO® Danish Oil Product Page

 

I used this when I first got my DT-11 on a recommendation from a stock maker as this seals the wood and pretty much makes it waterproof and add's a bit of shine to it and I used the Renaissance a couple times a year just so shiny it up a tad. WATCO® Danish Oil Product Page

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Which ”color” did you use?

I took a plunge and ordered samples of their “pure” and “natural “ finishes and will apply on a spare forearm and report back on appearance.

I’d be interested in your results…

 

Did you order interior, or exterior?

 

I ordered interior,which is recommended for flooring.

 

My good friend is an "amateur" wood worker. (he probably has $75k+ worth of equipment)
He swears by Rubio.

Please let us know how it turns out.

Cheers

 

One thing I’m worried about after watching intertube episodes: filling the grain on open pore walnut with only one or two applications and no “ mudding” in the pores.

 

Out of curiosity, how are you going to apply it?

 

I’ll read the instructions and apply accordingly. My best guess is with a lint free cloth, remove excess, then burnish

 

I would be interested in hearing how the product works out.

 

That does look interesting. I can't wait to see how it turns out. I wonder how it behaves on an unfinished stock that needs to be checkered after the finish is put on. I couldn't find the data sheet on it to see what it is made of.

 

Doug, not MSDS, but somewhere on their website it referenced linseed oil as the oil base.

 

Back in the day, a beretta gunsmith told me to use bowling alley wax. It worked really well. Sometimes the old school stuff is great for a reason:

https://restorationproduct.com/shop/bowling-alley-wax/

 

I figured it might have a linseed oil base. But the two part wax part would definitely seem to separate it from the crowd of other waxes.

I had a stock that was Boiled linseed oil and Butchers Bowling Alley wax. And is was ok but it did require frequent applications to keep the protection factor up.

The two part system seems like a completely different ball of wax. Pun intended.


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Finally a report on results. Bottom line is although it is extremely easy and quick to apply, it does not fill the grain well enough to satisfy me. I considered using a grain filler first but because the instructions say Rubio chemically bonds to bare wood, I didn’t try that. Besides, I prefer wet sanding to using a separate filler. I have pictures before and after if someone wants to post them, but I am not set up to do that. Nor do I care to set up the required intermediary account necessary. Thanks

 

Old thread, but i just stripped the horrible polycoat off of my Zoli and then applied Timberluxe and finally finished the refinishing with a rubio like product called, Natura onecoat. They have a clear product and it really is clear. Easy to apply and cured in 24 hrs. very happy with the results. Now to see how it holds up at the clay clubs.

 

Looking to see if anyone has used it on a gun stock just used it on a floating shelf above a free standing tub in a master bath it is the easiest finish i've ever used and came out with perfect finish that looked better than factory finishes, it is a molecular bond with the wood. I used it on walnut sanded to 180 grit applied with a white scotch brite pad and let set for 10 minutes and buffed off with a terry cloth rag.