On my O/U 12ga i noticed when it comes to the clays range instead of hunting. I miss more. I also notice that my neck is long or my face is long enough that i am actually looking down at an angle onto the barrel. What stock modifications can i make and how would i make them to to get closer to "level"? Im gussing there is too much drop in my stock. I have very long arms so i could modify with a recoil pad and make a longer lop. would that help? When i shoulder the gun to where i am comfortable looking level down the barrel the recoil pad is barely in my shoulder pocket. Maybe adjustable comb is the way to go?
jakehawkins
Get a professional fitting before you mess with the gun... it may be poor form on your part rather than a gun that doesn't fit.
This is just my observation on my guns. Pick an object on a wall, or place an object the size of a coffee can lid, stand 30 feet or so away and bring the gun up to where the sight picture is at the bottom of the lid or on it. Your stance should be the way it is when you shoot. Bring gun down, and this time close your eyes and bring gun up and see where barrel is pointing. Doing this repeatedly will give you an idea of what is wrong. My shirt arm length is 34-35, I'm 5'10" and weigh 180 lbs. Most of my guns the LOP is 14-14 14", the drop at heel is 2 1/4"-3". I find my problem in missing is not following through. Most of these guns are not for skeet shooting but hunting. The few that I use, a Winchester 101 in 20 ga. 26 1/2" imp.cyl/mod, and a Beretta 28 ga. 26" imp.cyl./mod. are the ones I use for skeet and the score difference is even.
I'm surprised you have this problem shooting skeet, your stance should be comfortable in that your pivot foot keeps your balance correct. Unless shooting International Skeet, keep the gun mounted to where it fits you. To be honest I don't see the barrel when I shoot, I just see the target.
Your score should be better at skeet than at birds, everything is unpredictable and your stance isn't always the way you want it.
It could be a clothes issue, a drop at heel or LOP issue also.
I'm surprised you have this problem shooting skeet, your stance should be comfortable in that your pivot foot keeps your balance correct. Unless shooting International Skeet, keep the gun mounted to where it fits you. To be honest I don't see the barrel when I shoot, I just see the target.
Your score should be better at skeet than at birds, everything is unpredictable and your stance isn't always the way you want it.
It could be a clothes issue, a drop at heel or LOP issue also.
on my other shotguns i dont see the barrel either, just the target and bead. i bought my stoeger 12 O/U in 28 inch so i could use one gun for everything. all my other guns dont take steel or are fixed choke. I know my gun choice isnt what 99% of the sgw forums would pick. But its my turd and i love my turd. The gun patterns amazingly well with extended chokes. that being said. i only have "looking down onto the barrel problem" with this gun. When i hunt i dont notice it and the birds fall. When i shoot clays i notice it because im not in the moment of shooting a bird. Could i be shooting more instinctively when im hunting? And noticing it at sporting clays because i have time to actually look and think about what im doing? maybe im trying to "force it" or not mounting my gun the way i do when i hunt.
Getting a professional stock fitting would probably fix my problems of looking down onto the gun. I really feel that it is a stock issue because i went through the safe to see, and all my other guns mount better. Would a professional stock fitting be worth it on a $400 gun? maybe perhaps i could read a book and learn how to do it myself.
Getting a professional stock fitting would probably fix my problems of looking down onto the gun. I really feel that it is a stock issue because i went through the safe to see, and all my other guns mount better. Would a professional stock fitting be worth it on a $400 gun? maybe perhaps i could read a book and learn how to do it myself.
Jake,
It is hard to be sure without looking at your gun mount, however:
I think it sound like your eye is too high above the rib. That would result in the gun shooting high which could be why you are hitting birds effectively and not targets. I recently realized that I had the same problem. I actually need more overall drop at comb than I can get.
I am going to make a stock for myself to fix the problem. I am starting a business making custom stocks and doing gunfitting. But that is another story.
To test the theory I added a temporary rib to my gun so I was looking down the barrel. You can do the same to see if it helps. It doen't have to be fancy. any staight strip of wood will do. You will need a friend to help figure out how thick of a peice you need. You have to have someone look down the barrel at your eye to gauge the distance you eye is above the rib. This of course is done after both of you are sure that the gun is unloaded!!!!
Once you have a the distance you can add the strip of wood to your barrel. It can be held on with electrical tape. Hopefully with some testing on you own you can determine what you need. With any luck it will be a small amount and a competent gunfitter could rehape your stock a little to fix the problem. Sometimes you can have an adjustable comb done where they remove more wood than they normally would so you can get the drop you need.
at least by trying this you can determine whether it would require a new stock, and adjusted stock or maybe a permanent add on rib. Even though some may have convinced you that your gun isn't worth the cost only you can answer that question. If you like the gun and plan to use it for a long time then it may be worth the fitting or an add on rib. A new custom stock my be pricey enough that you would be better served by finding another gun that is a closer fit.
any chance you are in Ohio. If you are close maybe I could give you a hand.
It is hard to be sure without looking at your gun mount, however:
I think it sound like your eye is too high above the rib. That would result in the gun shooting high which could be why you are hitting birds effectively and not targets. I recently realized that I had the same problem. I actually need more overall drop at comb than I can get.
I am going to make a stock for myself to fix the problem. I am starting a business making custom stocks and doing gunfitting. But that is another story.
To test the theory I added a temporary rib to my gun so I was looking down the barrel. You can do the same to see if it helps. It doen't have to be fancy. any staight strip of wood will do. You will need a friend to help figure out how thick of a peice you need. You have to have someone look down the barrel at your eye to gauge the distance you eye is above the rib. This of course is done after both of you are sure that the gun is unloaded!!!!
Once you have a the distance you can add the strip of wood to your barrel. It can be held on with electrical tape. Hopefully with some testing on you own you can determine what you need. With any luck it will be a small amount and a competent gunfitter could rehape your stock a little to fix the problem. Sometimes you can have an adjustable comb done where they remove more wood than they normally would so you can get the drop you need.
at least by trying this you can determine whether it would require a new stock, and adjusted stock or maybe a permanent add on rib. Even though some may have convinced you that your gun isn't worth the cost only you can answer that question. If you like the gun and plan to use it for a long time then it may be worth the fitting or an add on rib. A new custom stock my be pricey enough that you would be better served by finding another gun that is a closer fit.
any chance you are in Ohio. If you are close maybe I could give you a hand.
Jake,jakehawkins said:
All due respect to the assembled masses but that's how shotguns are meant to be mounted. The idea is to point the thing not "rifle" it, and you can't point it unless the rib is below the line of sight. If you point at something with your finger it's always held below the eye line and if you look at you finger you can see the top of it.
I realise that there are those who don't see any rib, just the bead, and they may feel it suits them, but when you mount the gun that way you're not shooting where you look, you're looking where you shoot which is not the same thing at all.
My advice would be to do what drsfmd suggests and find a proper gun fitter.
Jake,
Assuming your gun mount is somewhere near correct and you are looking down onto the rib rather than along its surface, it is probably due to your cheekbones being farther below your eyes than the design of the stock allows.
This causes the gun to shoot high - its point of impact is above its point of aim. This is fine for rising trap targets but not good for normal hunting or skeet and sporting clays targets.
There are four possible "fixes" for this.
1. Have the stock bent to lower the level of the top surface of the stock where your cheek is placed (the comb) relative to the height of the rib.
2. Have the stock re-fitted to the receiver to lower the comb by angling it down more.
3. Remove wood from the comb to lower it (bad idea).
4. Have an "add-on" rib installed on top of the existing rib to raise it. Raising the rib has the same effect as lowering the comb and is often the best way of correcting the vertical misalignment of the eye and the rib.
Visiting a good stock fitter is sound advice. The good fitters would correct any errors in your shooting form (gun mount, stance, body posture) and then change any stock dimensions that prevent your using it.
Assuming your gun mount is somewhere near correct and you are looking down onto the rib rather than along its surface, it is probably due to your cheekbones being farther below your eyes than the design of the stock allows.
This causes the gun to shoot high - its point of impact is above its point of aim. This is fine for rising trap targets but not good for normal hunting or skeet and sporting clays targets.
There are four possible "fixes" for this.
1. Have the stock bent to lower the level of the top surface of the stock where your cheek is placed (the comb) relative to the height of the rib.
2. Have the stock re-fitted to the receiver to lower the comb by angling it down more.
3. Remove wood from the comb to lower it (bad idea).
4. Have an "add-on" rib installed on top of the existing rib to raise it. Raising the rib has the same effect as lowering the comb and is often the best way of correcting the vertical misalignment of the eye and the rib.
Visiting a good stock fitter is sound advice. The good fitters would correct any errors in your shooting form (gun mount, stance, body posture) and then change any stock dimensions that prevent your using it.
dcblvsh2 and rollin oswald, your help is greatly appreciated
In regards to others:
thank you to all who repliead. I know that you arent supposed to aim a shotgun. I think we are all getting a little mixed up in the terminology everyone is using. Like all long guns your cheek is supposed to be against the butt stock,and your eye needs a close to level sight plane with the rib/sites. we can all agree on that or you would simply be shooting from the hip. Thats not effective. In my stocks current configuration i have to bunch up like you wouldnt believe to get my head down to the appropriate level. Idk how i can make my problem clearer for those who think im simply a novice with bad form. As i have said previously it could be possible i have a bad instinctive habit. But, Ive been shooting since i could pee straight, litteraly, and have never had a problem like this with any of my other various (there are more than ten other) shotguns, some of which are also over/unders as well with no fit problem. The reason i bought this gun was to have one i could use for everything instead of using 4 different shotguns.
One of theose adjustable comb kits that are a neoprene sleve with foam inserts to raise the comb(sort of like a monte carlo buttstock), would that be the opposite of raising the drop at comb?
Somethin like this Comb raiser dealy
could that work^
In regards to others:
thank you to all who repliead. I know that you arent supposed to aim a shotgun. I think we are all getting a little mixed up in the terminology everyone is using. Like all long guns your cheek is supposed to be against the butt stock,and your eye needs a close to level sight plane with the rib/sites. we can all agree on that or you would simply be shooting from the hip. Thats not effective. In my stocks current configuration i have to bunch up like you wouldnt believe to get my head down to the appropriate level. Idk how i can make my problem clearer for those who think im simply a novice with bad form. As i have said previously it could be possible i have a bad instinctive habit. But, Ive been shooting since i could pee straight, litteraly, and have never had a problem like this with any of my other various (there are more than ten other) shotguns, some of which are also over/unders as well with no fit problem. The reason i bought this gun was to have one i could use for everything instead of using 4 different shotguns.
One of theose adjustable comb kits that are a neoprene sleve with foam inserts to raise the comb(sort of like a monte carlo buttstock), would that be the opposite of raising the drop at comb?
Somethin like this Comb raiser dealy
could that work^
If you are hitting feathered birds with it consistantly, as stated, it seems that you are shooting it instinctively, just fine.
It's when you "have time" and "bunch up" to be where you "think" you should be, is where you are having problems.
Now, maybe an extension, like shiming the recoil pad to a longer pull lenght, would help as well. Such should also lower your eye a bit.
I personally, always want to be "looking down" on that rib a bit, and just "floating" the bird, over the muzzle. Never do I want a "flat" shooting gun, that I have to "cover" the bird with that muzzle, to be able to hit it. (You don't know where it is, or what it is doing when you have it "covered"!)
Trickster said it the simplest and the best. Certainly, make the gun "comfortable" for you, but go with the "sight picture" that works!
It's when you "have time" and "bunch up" to be where you "think" you should be, is where you are having problems.
Now, maybe an extension, like shiming the recoil pad to a longer pull lenght, would help as well. Such should also lower your eye a bit.
I personally, always want to be "looking down" on that rib a bit, and just "floating" the bird, over the muzzle. Never do I want a "flat" shooting gun, that I have to "cover" the bird with that muzzle, to be able to hit it. (You don't know where it is, or what it is doing when you have it "covered"!)
Trickster said it the simplest and the best. Certainly, make the gun "comfortable" for you, but go with the "sight picture" that works!
From what you describe raising your comb will be worse. The higher your comb goes the higher your gun will shoot.
Your coment about the gun no being in your shoulder pocket makes me think that is the place to start.I would first add the shim to your recoil bad to add length of pull. If your stock is slanted downward then as your face moves back a little it will also go down. You certainly don't want the rib to block your veiw.
I think there is definetly some truth to what jugchoke says about instinctive shooting, but your gun is shooting high and you could be getting lucky with birds if they are flying upwards. and you may be firing the gun before it is fully mounted. Are you shooting low gun when shooting clays? How are you at clay targets that are rising verses flat targets.
You have to decide how much to float a target when too much is too much. If what you see when shooting is different than your understanding of the correct sight picture then you need to make a change. I suspect you already know this because you postaed this thread.
This is all stuff you will work out with a gun fitting. But that doesn't mean you can't do a little on your own first.
Your coment about the gun no being in your shoulder pocket makes me think that is the place to start.I would first add the shim to your recoil bad to add length of pull. If your stock is slanted downward then as your face moves back a little it will also go down. You certainly don't want the rib to block your veiw.
I think there is definetly some truth to what jugchoke says about instinctive shooting, but your gun is shooting high and you could be getting lucky with birds if they are flying upwards. and you may be firing the gun before it is fully mounted. Are you shooting low gun when shooting clays? How are you at clay targets that are rising verses flat targets.
You have to decide how much to float a target when too much is too much. If what you see when shooting is different than your understanding of the correct sight picture then you need to make a change. I suspect you already know this because you postaed this thread.
This is all stuff you will work out with a gun fitting. But that doesn't mean you can't do a little on your own first.
Rollin,
page 75 of your book has pictures to explain the concept Jake is asking about.
Can you post it?
page 75 of your book has pictures to explain the concept Jake is asking about.
Can you post it?
When i shoot clays, the rising birds are busted 95% of the time. The flat fliers are where im missing. I know for a fact im shooting high as you mentioned. One of the stations a bird is flying flat across a pond much like a teal does, low and flat, and i could clearly see my shot pattern in the water that it shot high.
What are some good shim increments to try. My arms are long, im 6ft tall and they hang to about 4 inches above my knee. to be exact my arms are 36 inches long from shoulder to fingertip.
When shoot clays it depends on what shot presentation i have as to if i will shoot low gun or not. Its bad practice i know. i should do the same routine on all
I measured and if im not mistaken
my LOP is 14 1/2" drop at comb is 2 1/2"
What are some good shim increments to try. My arms are long, im 6ft tall and they hang to about 4 inches above my knee. to be exact my arms are 36 inches long from shoulder to fingertip.
When shoot clays it depends on what shot presentation i have as to if i will shoot low gun or not. Its bad practice i know. i should do the same routine on all
I measured and if im not mistaken
my LOP is 14 1/2" drop at comb is 2 1/2"
sent you a pm.
How far is your nose from your thumb when you have your gun mounted?
This hard to do without looking at you.
How far is your nose from your thumb when you have your gun mounted?
This hard to do without looking at you.
A few things haven't been mentioned, you might want to lay out your guns and compare them. The one that you are having the problem with may vary from the ones which you have no problem with (higher/lower comb, etc). If your Stoger varies in some detail (they all will be a little different, but not markedly so) maybe that is the problem.
Secondly, maybe you should look at the clothing you wear in both cases. If you wear a light shooting vest when at the range as apart from being rugged up when you are hunting.
You probably have too much time to think about it at the range and are over preparing/ worrying about it.
Maybe you should sell off a few of the guns that you no longer use/need to finance a new fitted gun or a custom stock for your Stoger. Would installing steel friendly chokes in one of your fixed choked guns that fit good be an answer? I find the briely chokes are reasonably priced considering how they transform a gun into something more workable.
I have found over the years that the usability of a gun is more often than not in direct relation to the quality of the gun, sad, but true as far as I'm concerned. I'm not primarily a shotgun shooter, but have always had at least one hunting gun, which have ranged from Boitos and Stogers (under a different brand her until recently), thinking back quickly I can remember 17 odd guns and there are gaps in that I'm sure. Apart from a cheapy IAC Hammer gun for Classic Cowboy matches, what I have ended up with are reasonably good quality guns.
I recently sold a Boito coach gun that I could not hit the cowbay targets with no matter how I tried. My Urtechnea or whatevr it is, whacks em every time and has almost 100% success with flying clays, so that solved a lot of problems. It saw double duty as a hnting gun (which was why I bought it in the first place). I will see how my new (to me) Miriku sxs goes in the field and the loser will get it's barrels lopped and a pair of screw-in chokes fitted and will serve out it's days as my cowboy gun and the other will be taken afield after game.
Good luck with it. If it works good for you, maybe it is worth spending almost as much as the gun is worth to get it right. You will just drop a few bucks if you sell it, but if it works, you are not likely to sel it are you? Sounds good in theory.
Secondly, maybe you should look at the clothing you wear in both cases. If you wear a light shooting vest when at the range as apart from being rugged up when you are hunting.
You probably have too much time to think about it at the range and are over preparing/ worrying about it.
Maybe you should sell off a few of the guns that you no longer use/need to finance a new fitted gun or a custom stock for your Stoger. Would installing steel friendly chokes in one of your fixed choked guns that fit good be an answer? I find the briely chokes are reasonably priced considering how they transform a gun into something more workable.
I have found over the years that the usability of a gun is more often than not in direct relation to the quality of the gun, sad, but true as far as I'm concerned. I'm not primarily a shotgun shooter, but have always had at least one hunting gun, which have ranged from Boitos and Stogers (under a different brand her until recently), thinking back quickly I can remember 17 odd guns and there are gaps in that I'm sure. Apart from a cheapy IAC Hammer gun for Classic Cowboy matches, what I have ended up with are reasonably good quality guns.
I recently sold a Boito coach gun that I could not hit the cowbay targets with no matter how I tried. My Urtechnea or whatevr it is, whacks em every time and has almost 100% success with flying clays, so that solved a lot of problems. It saw double duty as a hnting gun (which was why I bought it in the first place). I will see how my new (to me) Miriku sxs goes in the field and the loser will get it's barrels lopped and a pair of screw-in chokes fitted and will serve out it's days as my cowboy gun and the other will be taken afield after game.
Good luck with it. If it works good for you, maybe it is worth spending almost as much as the gun is worth to get it right. You will just drop a few bucks if you sell it, but if it works, you are not likely to sel it are you? Sounds good in theory.
dcblvsh2,
No, I cannot post pages from the book, here. I have to buy software to covert it from .pdf format to .doc format so I can add a Website URL to the information about S & S Plus in Montana in the "Suppliers" section of the book.
Jake,
Something you wrote makes me ask: Do you mount the gun with the top of the recoil pad on your collarbone? If you mount it lower, it could cause difficulty getting your cheek down to the comb of the stock.
Rather than raising the rib, if my suspicion is correct, you would be better off with a unit called a stock or pad adjuster. These units allow the whole recoil pad or butt to be lowered to allow a more natural and upright head and neck posture.
No, I cannot post pages from the book, here. I have to buy software to covert it from .pdf format to .doc format so I can add a Website URL to the information about S & S Plus in Montana in the "Suppliers" section of the book.
Jake,
Something you wrote makes me ask: Do you mount the gun with the top of the recoil pad on your collarbone? If you mount it lower, it could cause difficulty getting your cheek down to the comb of the stock.
Rather than raising the rib, if my suspicion is correct, you would be better off with a unit called a stock or pad adjuster. These units allow the whole recoil pad or butt to be lowered to allow a more natural and upright head and neck posture.
Sounds like you really need someone to look at your gun mount that knows what they are looking at. If you are shooting too short a LOP, you could end up too far forward on the stock, and this could cause this problem. Rollin is the expert here, you might look for a copy of his book somewhere.
If you are shooting too short a LOP, make up some spacers for you recoil pad and experiment a bit. I think you want a minimum of an inch between your nose and your thumb, a little more is better.
If you're not getting the stock down into your shouder socket, you might need a adjustable butt plate - I like the 100 Straight plates myself. They add about 1/4" to the LOP, so if you are trying to add LOP, keep that in mind.
I like the adjustable combs- final adjustment, and this is what really gets your eye lined up along the center of the bbl.
I'm thinking from your description you probably have your head pushed forward and angled down to get your cheak weld. I think its possible, you need to lengthen the LOP, add the adjustable butt plate to get the gun into your shoulder, you may even need to add the adjsutable comb- because as you move your head back along the comb, and get a more erect head, you may need the comb to get your check weld.
I'm only about 5'11" or so and I use a LOP of almost 15". (I think I added 3/8" to the stock Beretta LOP)
John
If you are shooting too short a LOP, make up some spacers for you recoil pad and experiment a bit. I think you want a minimum of an inch between your nose and your thumb, a little more is better.
If you're not getting the stock down into your shouder socket, you might need a adjustable butt plate - I like the 100 Straight plates myself. They add about 1/4" to the LOP, so if you are trying to add LOP, keep that in mind.
I like the adjustable combs- final adjustment, and this is what really gets your eye lined up along the center of the bbl.
I'm thinking from your description you probably have your head pushed forward and angled down to get your cheak weld. I think its possible, you need to lengthen the LOP, add the adjustable butt plate to get the gun into your shoulder, you may even need to add the adjsutable comb- because as you move your head back along the comb, and get a more erect head, you may need the comb to get your check weld.
I'm only about 5'11" or so and I use a LOP of almost 15". (I think I added 3/8" to the stock Beretta LOP)
John
When i mount the gun instinctivly the top of the recoil pad is almost, if not flush with the top of my shoulder pocket(where your collar bone meets your shoulder is what im talking about) When i put the gun to where it looks like the correct line of site, the recoil pad is only about half way in my shoulder pocket with the top half of that not contacting anything but air above my shoulder pocketRollin Oswald said:
are you talking about one of these Rollin Adjustable recoil pad
I stand by what I said in my first post:
If you are hitting feathered birds with it consistantly, as stated, it seems that you are shooting it instinctively, just fine.
It's when you "have time" and "bunch up" to be where you "think" you should be, is where you are having problems.
More folks are screwed up by that "figure eight" thing, or a "flat look along the rib", than just a few!
If you are hitting feathered birds with it consistantly, as stated, it seems that you are shooting it instinctively, just fine.
It's when you "have time" and "bunch up" to be where you "think" you should be, is where you are having problems.
More folks are screwed up by that "figure eight" thing, or a "flat look along the rib", than just a few!
Yeah true to that i should get one of those gun mounted cams and point it at me to see what i actually do when i shoot instinctively while im hunting. maybe in clays instead of mounting the gun before the shot. do the low gun. keep it down til the birds fly. never thot about it like that ill try it and see how it does.
My line of sight problem happens when i pre mount the gun prior to the shot. i think to myself, damn this doesnt look right and fiddle with it.
Now that i think about it, this whole thing could be in my head and i was too stubborn to realize it. I feel a lil embarrassed ill go out tommorrow and pound a couple hundred and then come back with a diagnosis
ill try it and see how it does.My line of sight problem happens when i pre mount the gun prior to the shot. i think to myself, damn this doesnt look right and fiddle with it.
Now that i think about it, this whole thing could be in my head and i was too stubborn to realize it. I feel a lil embarrassed
ill go out tommorrow and pound a couple hundred and then come back with a diagnosis
Dont' be embarrased, there are a lot of folks who shoot well instinctlively, and screw up when they think about it too much.
Maybe with gun fitting, and pro type lessons, such folks could do better, but it will/would take time and money.
One's own choice.
Maybe with gun fitting, and pro type lessons, such folks could do better, but it will/would take time and money.
One's own choice.
dcblvsh2,
I just remembered: Visit my Website and click on a tab identified as "Excerpts" near the top of the page. It will take you to two pages from "Bible" that when clicked on and enlarged to 150% (lower right corner of your screen), the one on the right probably describes the same thing as page 122 of "Secrets" (I no longer have a copy or file of "Secrets.")
I just remembered: Visit my Website and click on a tab identified as "Excerpts" near the top of the page. It will take you to two pages from "Bible" that when clicked on and enlarged to 150% (lower right corner of your screen), the one on the right probably describes the same thing as page 122 of "Secrets" (I no longer have a copy or file of "Secrets.")
jugchoke, guess what, you were right. I went out today and shot 44/50jakehawkins said:Yeah true to that i should get one of those gun mounted cams and point it at me to see what i actually do when i shoot instinctively while im hunting. maybe in clays instead of mounting the gun before the shot. do the low gun. keep it down til the birds fly. never thot about it like that
My line of sight problem happens when i pre mount the gun prior to the shot. i think to myself, damn this doesnt look right and fiddle with it.
Now that i think about it, this whole thing could be in my head and i was too stubborn to realize it. I feel a lil embarrassed
instead of pre mounting the gun i just kept it down like i do when im hunting. what a world of difference. This is a we bit embarrassing
Jake,
The reason you mount your gun with the top of the pad making no contact with your shoulder is that your stock has too little "drop at the heel." The height of the butt is too near the level of the rib.
The down side of this mount is that it is not very secure/solid and it increases barrel rise during recoil.
This could be corrected with a unit called a stock or pad adjuster such as the one 100 straight sells, sometimes referred to as a Jones pad adjuster.
The reason you mount your gun with the top of the pad making no contact with your shoulder is that your stock has too little "drop at the heel." The height of the butt is too near the level of the rib.
The down side of this mount is that it is not very secure/solid and it increases barrel rise during recoil.
This could be corrected with a unit called a stock or pad adjuster such as the one 100 straight sells, sometimes referred to as a Jones pad adjuster.
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