Go for it. I had a similar plan with 2 loaders, 1 for a lead target load and a second for a steel target load and once I got them set, they worked fine w very few changes over years of use.

 

I do the same with MEC 9000GN and a Ponsness Warren 800plus. No experience with Hornady. Both Machines will do the job the PW requires less tinkering with and will stay in adjustment. It has no resizer like the MEC but makes great shells. The MEC makes great shells also but I keep having promblems with it. I have a 9000G 1985 Model smooth puts out great shells never any issues. My GN is 2022 Model gives me lots of grief. Best wishes in 2025 Jack

 

The PW does have a sizer just not a collet sizer

 

everyone has their preference of which reloader is better. You should set up both of them, use them, then decide for yourself which one you like best.

you’ve got two good reloaders

 

I have did the same thing as you. I have a Mec Grabber set up for 1 1/8 oz in a STS hull and my 366 set up for 1 oz in a AA hull. I never have to change anything. Go for it.
You have a couple of good reloader. Remember when you spill shot be sure you have it all cleaned up before you pull the handle again.
Just kept them lube up and they last you a life time.

 

I would start with the 20 gauge Sizemaster. It's a single stage press which can be easier to learn the process of reloading on. Each step of reloading is done one pull of the handle at a time and the shell needs to be moved from one station to the next for each individual phase of the reloading process. (1) De-priming and sizing the brass base. (2) Re-priming (3) Powder charge, then wad insertion and shot charge (4) Pre-crimp (5) final crimp and hull sizing.
By using a single stage reloader you will learn every step, one station at a time, instead of having to keep track of all steps simultaneously as on a progressive press. This will help you understand the reloading process as a whole. It will also help you comprehend how to make adjustments to each station on the press. As a result, your shells will be loaded properly and look outstanding.
There are plenty of owners manuals and video tutorials for your make and model of reloader available. By taking the time to learn and then apply the process of reloading first, you will encounter less problems as you begin reloading.
Next I would move on to the 8567 because you manually index the hull rotation around the press. I am not making this suggestion based on shell gauge but rather on the function of the machine and by staying with one press manufacturer in the beginning. Keeping it simple at first will pay dividends for you as your knowledge and skill levels progress.

 

I have had both machines and they both make good reloads when running correctly and it seems like the 9000 is runs correctly longer. I prefer the 9000 over the 366 for the following reasons.
1. As noted it is easier to change bushings on the MEC
2. I much prefer the collet sizer over the bushing style of the 366
3. The primer feed is much easier to fill and empty
4. Like the automatic powder and shot shutoff on the MEC
5. It is easier to remove a shell in station to correct a problem
6. The 366 has a few high maintenance/adjustment issues that the 9000 does not i.e. the shell plate has to be manually tensioned and the primer tube stop seems to wear out to frequently

Good luck and enjoy which ever strategy you choose.

 

Over the past 3 yrs, I have been acquiring reloading supplies and reloading machines. I have a Hornady 366 12ga and a MEC 9000N 12 ga, one of which will be my primary machine. I also have a MEC 8567N for 28ga and a MEC Sizemaster for 20 ga.

I have read some about both the 12 ga machines and am debating which one I should start with. Seems some of the pros for the MEC machine are the ease of changing bushings and also it is not necessary to deal with powder and shot shutoff. The 366 I have has the powder and shot cutoff attachment, and I have read that once the machine is set up for a specific load and shell, it will produce great reloads.

I am new to reloading, so want to keep it as simple as possible. I will mostly be reloading 1 oz target loads using AAHS hulls.

I’m thinking of setting up the 366 and dialing it in as a designated 1 oz load machine. Then setting up the 9000N as a 1 1/8 oz target load machine that I can then change out the bushings to reload heavier hunting loads or lighter 7/8 oz target loads.

I welcome any constructive suggestions regarding my planned setup.

Thanks.

I think you have it kinda OK except for the hunting loads on the 9000GN12. You can do that but for a short run, it is much simpler on a Sizemaster. I would choose either the 9000 or the 366 for all my target loads, sell the one that you aren't going to use and buy a Sizemaster. For short run loads you will thank me.

I have both 9000's and Sizemasters in 16 and 12 gauge. If it isn't at least a 250 round run, the loads go on a Sizemaster.

I love my 9000's and I seldom have any problems with them, but they are not made with 50 to 100 round hunting loads in mind.

 

I have had and used MECs (several models), a Bair, an RCBS Mini-Grand, and the Hornady 366. I find changing charge bushings in either the MECS or 366s to be about the same amount of work, it's just different in the 366. Using a stand to hold the measure assembly upside-down (made of simple construction lumber) while changing 366 bushings allows the slide to be removed safely even with powder or shot in the hoppers (just tape them shut), then reinserted in the housing and reinstalled.

and I have read that once the machine is set up for a specific load and shell, it will produce great reloads.

I find the settings on the Hornady to:
1) stay put VERY much more reliably than the MEC settings, and they don't have "hold-down machine screws" that tear out threads due to attempting to overtighten them.
2) the settings are highly repeatable because they all are based on thread-turns which can be counted to put the settings back to a previous configuration

I adjust my 366 settings fairly often due to changing between 7/8, 1 and 1 1/8 ounce loads for very different requirements. Takes less than 2 minutes.

The 366 is WAY more solidly built and remains serviceable for 30 or more years of hard use without replacing lots of parts.
366 does not use several small diameter, long rods to serve as actuators. Only long rod is the swivel that swings the wad guide over the top of the hull.

If you are damaging the 366 primer tube foot and wearing it out quickly, you have it adjusted too far down and are over-flexing it. The feet on my primer feed tubes last 5 years in heavy use.

I find the ring sizer on my 366 works just fine even when I use range-pickup hulls of unknown history, and also when used on shells fired in some cheap double guns that have had lots of chamber honing to fix roughly chambered barrels at the (foreign) factories. I shoot my reloads in at least 12 different over/unders, side by sides, pump and semi-auto 12 gauges. Never a sizing problem. And never have to clean out a collet or re-adjust it or relube it.

As for "needing to manually tension the shell plate" - I have NEVER heard about that complaint and would not understand how one puts "tension" on the shell plate anyway.

I now like my 366s so much I retired my 2 remaining MECs to just experimental loads that I assemble one shell as a time.

So - for the OP's direct question - I would run just one 366 for starters, and even once you want to produce batches of different payloads as well. Making crimp settings changes on the 9000 are, in my experience, a lot less precise, repeatable, and (for the crimp cam) less-solidly locked in place.

good luck, garrisonjoe

 

Sounds like Vanilla or Chocolate? Your preferences may vary so try them both.

 

I have three 12 ga reloaders. my 366 is the best for repeatability by far. they are all set up for a specific hull, wad, powder, shot combination

 

Since I retired and have more time to play around, my 9000's seldom see the same loads twice in a row. I think they are really flexible when it comes to trying different loads/components. Most times the adjustments consist of, wad pressure, crimp start, crimp depth and a finish die adjustment. That's all straight forward stuff. I seldom touch the cam setting. Every once in a while I have to make a reprime tube adjustment, depending on the basewad height..

 

just me.
but i'd make my decision based on which one i could get parts for the easiest.
then i'd take the time to understand the machine from top to bottom.


i can have a new P/W part in my hands in 2-3 days, or the same day if i just drive to their shop.
i know how they work.
i know if i do this,, this happens.
the hand motions are second nature to me, and my eyes know where they should be at any given time.

i also have a hornady 366, it's a whole different world of when, where, why, and how fast.

 

I was told by PW that there was a 2 year wait for a a new PW 800+ so I dont understand you can get 1 in 2-3 days

 

Hi KS,
IMO the 9000 is the most versatile machine on the market. It really depends on how much you want to load, but even with the progessive machines you can get tired of pulling the handle. The 9000 can be converted to electric drive with a fairly simple conversion kit. After thousands of reloads my shoulder started giving me trouble and I said goodbye to the handle.
I have never tried Hornady but I know for certain that MEC has SUPERB customer support and can help you out of any situation you might encounter.
As far as dependability goes, I have a thread on here right now with pictures of a 70 YEAR OLD MEC loader that works like new!

https://www.shotgunworld.com/threads/antique-like-me.577775/unread

Load some on both and see what works for you.

 

IMO the 9000 is the most versatile machine on the market.

Since there is no indication you have ever loaded on anything other than the 9000, your opinion is vacuous.

 

I have several MEC loaders and 3 Hornady 366's. I use 1 for GC hulls, 1 for AAHS hulls and the other has two heads that I can switch to load either 20 or 28 gauge hulls. My MEC's sit idly by waiting for a day when I'll need them for a slightly different load than I'm already set up for. I feel the 366 will out last the MEC's easily and there are not a lot of wear parts on them either.
Good Luck
DG

 

Since you are a Kansas Jayhawk (and I'm a Missouri Tiger) I will recommend you go with the MEC.

 

I have never tried Hornady but

Then you don't know if the MEC is better, it's just what you have used successfully.

Load some on both and see what works for you.

Appears you won't take your own advice. garrisonjoe