Matt,
I'm not familiar with how the non-toxic shot performs in relation to lead, but otherwise it sounds like a good load.
Good Hunting!

 

My only question is the weight vs volume ratio between lead and steel. If the rule of thumb is lead and powder by volume theoretically you could go witb powder and ateel plus 30% to achieve the weight as a lead load.

 

Matt- I would suggest a slight addition to your wad column, with one or two hard cardboard wads over the powder to seal the bore better. Otherwise you might be getting blow-by of gases which could decrease your shot velocity and also melt your shotcups to cause plastic fouling. As for the shot load, a volume of 100 gr. of FFg equals about 3 3/4 drams of powder or 1 3/8 ounces of lead shot (a light 10 gauge load). As you know, non-toxic shot doesn't weigh the same as lead, but I think you would be safest by going with equal volume of non-tox as powder as long as the non-tox is lighter than lead. Steel shot is the lightest of the non-toxic shot types, so using this you might be loading something like an ounce or so of steel with an equal 100 gr. powder volume. Some shooters have suggested that you can't get enough velocity with black powder to make steel shot effective because it is so light; you would need to check on this yourself I guess if you choose steel instead of bismuth or Nice Shot or ITX. There are some good posts on this subject in the "Hard shot in old guns" thread in this site.

 

Thats a great response, thanks. I'll give the card a try over the powder. As for the other non-toxic shot I just cant justify $130 for a 7lbs bag of hevi-shot or similar. If thats what I have to use to kill a duck then I'll stick with my Winchester Super X2 and 3 1/2" BB's

The prices are way beyond prohibitive.

 

This is a little dated, but it's how I do it:

http://my.ilstu.edu/~taparme/steel.htm

 

This is a little dated, but it's how I do it:

http://my.ilstu.edu/~taparme/steel.htm

Nice. question. What does cutting the bottom of the shot cup do?

Pedersoli sets the maximum load at 120 gr. I might go with that and see if I can measure out 1 1/2 oz of B's

I like the idea of making speed loads out of the shot cups. If the shot does not fill the shot cup up would you reccomend cutting off the excess?

Would the 1/2" fiber wads be doing anything?

 

Update....

I cut open one of my 3 1/2" BB's loads. It's a Kent Fasteel 1 3/8 oz. load. I counted 92 pellets. I filled the empty hull with the BB's and then cut off the top. I then measured out 12 loads and poured them into 12 10ga shot cups. I taped the end like you did but there is about 1/2" of empty space from the top of the shot and the shot cup. Wondering if I should load the shot cup about half way in the barrel and cut off the top before sending all the way down. Top off with a over shot card....

So, here is what I am thinking

120gr F Goex
Carboard over powder card
1/2" fiber wad
Shotcup
Shot cup
1 3/8 oz. Steel BB's
Over shot card

 

Cutting the "flange" off the bottom of the shot cup gives a flat surface on the bottom of the shot cup to sit on the wad column. If your over-shot wad seats OK without cutting the excess wad petals off, I wouldn't worry about it. Theoretically, the fibre wad cushions the payload, which I don't think is a real big concern with steel shot. Some guns seem to pattern better with a cushion wad and some seem to pattern better without. You can also put a little lube on the cushion wad to keep fouling soft. If I did the math right, 120gr is just shy of 4-1/2 drams, which I would expect to be a pretty good load with 1-3/8 oz shot.

 

In my Navy Arms double 12 that I've had and used for over 30 years now, 4 1/2 dram and 1 3/8 oz of shot is my standard load. I've killed a lot of game with that load over the years.

 

It works...........it works

Woooooooooooooooohooooooooooooooooooo

 

Good Job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Yeaterday I headed to the range to sight in my rifle for this weekend. I stopped by the shotgun range and asked the folks there if they would throw two birds for so I could unload my shotgun. They agreed but were puzzled right up until I let loose with the first barrel. Surprised the guys at the end of the range pretty good. Later I went home and cleaned but the rifle and shotgun. I noticed a stringy film coming out of the shotgun, which I presume was fouling from melting shot cup. Seemed like it came out readily enough with warm water.

 

Matt,
I decided a long time ago not to use plastic wads or shot cups in either my muzzlloaders or Black Powder cartridge shotguns. Black Powder just burns too hot, and leaves a stringy mess.
A good-fitting over powder card and a fiber cushion wad works very well, and I don't seem to be getting enough deformation to cause a problem.

 

With steel shot you need the steel shot wads to protect the barrels. I use hot, soapy water to clean my shotguns and after using the plastic wads, the plastic fouling will come out in long "ribbons". It seems to clean out fine and doesn't seem to cause any issues, it just looks a little wierd!

 

I've used plastic shot cups in my 12 for years without any plastic buildup. That's with both FFg and Pyrodex RS. The only cardboard wad I've used has been homemade overshot thin cardboard wads.

Not saying it can't happen, but it's not been my experience.

 

as far as getting the pattern to center on the target, that is a stock fitting issue. You need a copy of the "Stock Fitter's Bible''. My SXS 10 ga. Pedersoli patterns low if I aim it but it is right on target as it comes to my shoulder when I point it.