No need for a 3.5” gun for pheasants.
The Beretta Xplor is chambered for 3” shells And weighs about a pound less.
I like the new Beretta A-400 upland in 12 ga with a 26” barrel.

 

What did the guide find wrong with your Model 870?

 

He noticed that I lost my sight picture as I racked the gun. I am sure I could improve my technique to keep following the bird while racking, but a semiauto seems like it can ease the process. Made sense. Do you have an alternate view? I'm open to ideas here!

 

I would disagree with your guide. I would say it is the shooter not the gun. I have been upland hunting with an 870 for 47 years. It is still my go to choice for upland and waterfowl. I upland hunt with a group of guys who shoot model 1897's, model 12's, side by sides, over unders and semiautomatics. My 870 will keep up with any of those other guns. Shoot your gun and get proficient with what you have. A semiauto can make a follow up shot simpler and I shoot one for sporting clays often, but that is for recoil reduction. You do not need a 3.5" chambered gun for pheasant. A good upland 12 ga only needs a 2 3/4" chamber. The only time I use 3" shells for upland is in an 870 20 ga. You also do not need a camo gun to pheasant hunt. If you want it to be your pheasant, duck, goose gun maybe a camo gun with a long chamber.

 

I'm in your area. I use 1 1/4 oz of No.5 shot going about 1220 fps. That's plenty! You don't need more velocity or weight of shot for pheasant.
I found that no.4 works but the pattern is a little thin and no. 6 works but the pellets are a bit small. Because the dog is busting birds out of dense cover, I would pick no. 6 over 4 if that was my only choice.
I even use cheap ol' Herters shotgun shells that used to be $12 a box, but better quality shot really is better. Now I am using Remington Nitro Pheasant, which isn't too expensive but is what I could get.

Barrel length is a non-issue. I went with 26" barrel in my semi auto. My old nostalgic pump has a 30" barrel. My brand new over and under.. 28". Don't forget that the receiver makes the pump or semi-auto longer than over and under or side by side. I want something that is quick to point because pheasants are busting out of deep cover and we have excellent excellent grouse hunting up north.

I got a Fabarm L4s Initial Hunter and would recommend it if it fits you because the barrel is not only rated for steel, but ALL the chokes (up to super-full) are rated for steel, and it can take 3" shells so the gun is future-proofed for steel shot mandates or duck hunting should I ever want to take the pretty thing out in the wet.

The service, which I have never needed, is 5 years (vs 1 for what you're thinking of) and outstanding review vs "may as well send it to Coles, it'll be faster". Trigger is outstanding out of the box.

Just an option that works for me.

 

Great feedback, thank you all!

On the 870 - I purchased it used, no idea the version, but barrel is 18". The guide said I could certainly make that work, but a longer barrel would be another helpful element.

I'm very sure user inexperience is my biggest hurdle, vs equipment. Choice will come down to whether I push myself to train (with clays, etc.) with what I have, or go semiauto and invest that same training time into a Beretta with longer barrel and quicker/easier follow-up than 870. Either option will improve my fall hunting, for sure!

 

The barrel on that 870 is a problem. Too short and probably no choke in it. My advice would be to buy a 26 or 28" barrel put in a modified choke and a good load of #5 lead. Save that 18" barrel for home defense.

 

Barrel Up.....save some $$$s.....fit & try.....then, consider another scattergun in a year or so.

 

Carmel Nova,

Since you already own 3 pump shotguns, does one of them have a longer choked barrel? You should be able to find a bird barrel for one of those shotguns.

Where are you at in WI? I still shoot in WI from April-August. I havent waterfowl or grouse hunted WI in recent years like I used to. Maybe one of these days. I was planning to shoot at Mayville on the March 26th, but decided to save my gas money for the moment.

 

Where are you at in WI?

@noweil , I'm in SE Wisconsin, west of Milwaukee. Hunt at a club in Waukesha. If you plan on getting out my way, shoot me a note - I'd be glad to introduce you to the club, and we could shoot clays together in the summer. (Pheasant season ends on 4/15, and doesn't resume until October)

Thank you for your suggestions!

 

It sounds like you’re hunting preserve pheasants. The guns the guide recommended are both heavy, all-weather waterfowl hunting guns that are not what i would choose for preserve pheasants. I would look at an a400 upland 12/28 and buy a briley mag cap with some weight and a stock weight to add during the summer if you want it to do double duty as a clay target gun. Or you could look at an a300 ultima for half the price, which would also be a great pheasant & occasional clays gun. If you think you’re going to do a lot of clay shooting, i would get an a400 xcel which should be fine to use on some preserve hunts as those hunts are usually in cover that can be walked relatively easy and, thus, are pretty light on gun wear & tear.

 

There are many thousands of 870 barrels out there. See if you can get one a bit longer. If you are hunting preserve birds, you do not need much choke. If you want an auto, even a 20 gauge would be fine. I would recommend the Franchi AL48. The new Franchi Affinity is a fine 12 gauge. Many millions of pheasants have been killed over the past 100 years with a lot of pump shotguns.

 

I like stinky Pete suugest trying out the L4S a nice overall shotgun. Comfortable to carry in the field.

 

Don't overlook the Beretta Outlander series. I have 2 of them. They are fantastic shotguns and for the price they can't be beat in my opinion. Check them out.

 

If you stacked all the pheasants killed by 870’s over the years, they would probably reach the moon. 870 is fine for pheasants.
Your barrel is probably too short. 26” or 28” probably better suited.
Other than that it’s just a case of you working on a smooth pumping technique. Experienced pump gun operators can function just as fast as automatic shooters. Just practice.
No need to spend $1900 for an auto.

 

First of all, there's nothing wrong with shooting birds with a Remington 870, as long as it fits you and is equipped for the job. (the 18" barrel is too short) Dad bought me a Wingmaster in 20 gauge when I was about 10 or 11 years old. Hunted dove, quail, woodcock, as well as squirrels with that gun. (and I still have it) Years later, I added several 12 gauge 870's to the collection. Up until I bought my Berettas, an 870 was my hunting gun. Before dove and Teal season opened every fall, I would take my 870 to the skeet range and shoot a 100 for a good warmup. With practice, you can learn to pump an 870 pretty quick.
Having said that, I prefer the gas operated Beretta. Much less recoil and instant follow-up shots. I don't hunt with my 870 anymore, but I could.
If you decide to buy a Beretta semi-auto for hunting, they are all good. The A400 Xplor is the top of the line, but as someone has already mentioned, the A300 Outlander is a good gun too, and cost less. Beretta has recently introduced the A300 Ultima. Matte finished and synthetic stock with the Kick-Off system, it retails for about $800. And don't let the price fool you. They are dependable guns, that will reliably cycle anything from 3" magnums down to light Skeet loads.
And I would also consider a used 390 or 391. I have one of each. They are great guns and weren't made that long ago. You can still get parts, if needed.

You are correct, the Beretta website is practically useless. Go to the videos on YouTube. Search for "A300 or A400 reviews."

Which ever route you decide to go, definitely get some practice on a clay field. Skeet is good, and Sporting Clays or 5-stand is even better practice for hunters.

 

I've shot a pump gun at pheasants for a long time. I tried a semi-auto and found that after a shot, when I would pull on the fore-end, it wouldn't load another shell. I've recently discovered over-unders have the same issue.

If you have a 12 gauge pump gun, it will work fine on pheasants. When you practice, shoot doubles until shucking a spent shell becomes automatic. If you raise your head, it's not the gun's fault--you just have to work at it until you don't do it anymore. Or learn to kill the bird with the first shot, which is even better.

The more important thing to decide is "What gun fits me?"

 

I agree, Beretta should add a comparison page to their web site, and I haven't seen a broad comparison by anyone else. The Beretta A400 Upland is their premier upland hunting shotgun however this isn't the only good choice for pheasant hunting from Beretta or anyone else. An A300 Outlander (wood stock) or A300 Ultima (available in 12 and 20 gauge) should work well. My current favorite for upland bird hunting is the A400 Lite Synthetic in 20 gauge but this is because a day of hunting for me frequently involves walking 10 miles on rough ground and through heavy cover.

A Remington 870 Wingmaster was my first shotgun and I used it (with a 28" barrel and Remchoke) for all my hunting (waterfowl and upland birds) and clay target (skeet at that time) shooting. I never felt like I was handicapped using it even while shooting doubles at skeet. An 18" barrel is likely to result in a shotgun that is difficult to keep on moving targets. A longer barrel creates a longer sighting plain but, more importantly, adds mass to the front of the gun, that mass while moving after a target in flight helps smooth the swing. So, if adding some mass is good why not add a lot? Too much mass, a barrel heavy shotgun, is difficult to change the direction of on targets (clay, bird) as they change in direction.

That you are using a follow-up shot and profess to be new semiautomatic shotguns to leads me to wonder if you are also new to pheasant hunting. If I'm wrong, please forgive me. If correct, I suggest you find a clay target range with an instructor and rental shotguns. Shooting at moving targets (clay pigeons, birds) is completely different than shooting at fixed targets. Your instructor will help with your shooting and provide suggestions on gun fit; not only how to modify a shotgun to fit you but which makes/models might best fit you. Shooting instruction is helpful for beginners through professionals. By seeking instruction when you are relatively new to the shotgun sports you will pick up fewer bad habits that you have to un-learn later. If your intent is to hunt pheasants let the instructor know this as it will affect the instruction they provide.

Have you found some recipes for pheasant that you like?

 

That you are using a follow-up shot and profess to be new semiautomatic shotguns to leads me to wonder if you are also new to pheasant hunting. If I'm wrong, please forgive me. If correct, I suggest you find a clay target range with an instructor and rental shotguns. Shooting at moving targets (clay pigeons, birds) is completely different than shooting at fixed targets. Your instructor will help with your shooting and provide suggestions on gun fit; not only how to modify a shotgun to fit you but which makes/models might best fit you. Shooting instruction is helpful for beginners through professionals. By seeking instruction when you are relatively new to the shotgun sports you will pick up fewer bad habits that you have to un-learn later. If your intent is to hunt pheasants let the instructor know this as it will affect the instruction they provide.

JP, thank you for your thoughtful post. I am very new to pheasant hunting, and before this year, never hunted in my life...grew up in NJ with no gun knowledge in my family. Total hunting experience is two outings at a nearby sporting club (hunting preserve) in Waukesha, WI. As other astute people surmised in prior posts, my technique is lacking with the pump, and with non-target shooting in general. I'm now realizing that time spent at clay target range is key. There is one less than 2 miles from my home (I can hear it from my backyard!), so I have no excuse not to go, other than nobody to shoot with.

It sounds like at the very least I need a longer barrel for my 870. A possible benefit to blowing serious funds on a good semiauto is the practice and training would be on a more capable firearm, vs training on the pump then switching to semiauto in a year or two. Would I get more mileage out of the training? Am weighing that question.

I LOVE the idea of finding an instructor. I have one that has done several 1:1 sessions on tactical home defense with shotgun, and that has helped me tremendously. Your point is excellent. I wonder if a home defense instructor may not be the same as lessons/instruction at a clay target range. I should probably join the nearby clay target gun club (just $35/year) and hang out there...may both find people to shoot with, and a good instructor that can help me build skills in a more serious way.

Thank you JP, and all who have responded - I am so grateful for all your insights and suggestions!

 

I agree with the other suggestions - try a longer barrel on the 870 first. If you haven't heard of it, barrel exchange is a good place to find them if you're having trouble locally:

shotgun barrels for sale

 

Your guide is a fool.

 

Actually, an idiot

 

 

Randy, I love the video! Captures the experience well, though for me it was a clumsy second shot that got a pheasant on both my first hunts. I'll dream of doing it the way you did in a "future me".

 

Save your money… Beretta a 300 all day long. No need to buy anything more expensive

 

Personally, I prefer a 20 gauge autoloader if I’m doing a lot of walking.

20 gauge autoloaders I’d recommend:
Benelli M2
Beretta 390, or A300 Ultima
Browning gold/silver
Franchi affinity
Mossberg Sa-20/Tristar’s Viper G2
Remington 1100, or 1187
Weatherby Sa-08, or Element.
Winchester SX3, or SX4

 

(note.. Wisconsin's wild pheasant and grouse season ended Jan 8 2020) (There is ample public hunting in south/central Wisconsin... the big problem is I would rather hunt with an old Stevens single shot and my dog.. heck.. maybe even a slingshot and my dog.. than a Perazzi and no dog.)

Now someone said "recipes"... for me, I use the "Stand on the wings" method , let hang for (depends on the temperature outside) then fillet the breasts. Dredge the breasts in about 2 tablespoons of Wisconsin maple syrup and 1 tablespoon of apple vinegar. Grill 3 minutes over medium heat, NO LONGER! Flip, put a dollop of applesauce made with Wisconsin apples on the fillet. Continue grilling for exactly 3 minutes, NO LONGER! Remove to serve with

Wisconsin Apples, diced and added to apple sauce
Wisconsin wild rice
Wisconsin acorn squash that have been cooked for 40 minutes with (you know where the butter came from) and brown sugar rubbed inside.

The remaining carcass, heart, thighs and drumsticks are frozen for later.. they make the best winter soup ever. But that's another recipe.

 

Hi SP, That recipe looks tasty! I may need to try it - thank you for the suggestion.
On the season - the club and its grounds (with its pheasant farm) isn't a wild pheasant hunt, otherwise of course I wouldn't be hunting them in April.
Now I'll have to find some Wisconsin wild rice and acorn squash!

 

Any specific reason for the "idiot" or "fool" designations? I'm going to hunt with the idiot/fool's Beretta and his dogs in a week, just wondering if there's helpful coaching to arm me for the sure-to-be stupid advice he might offer when we're together. I could guess, but would learn more by hearing your insights behind the mental capability assessment. If you'd be willing, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks in advance!

 

The reason Dr Duk, Staff member Super Moderator Premium Member came up with the "idiot" label is not a cognitive assessment. The idea that anyone in control of their faculties would prefer a ponderous, heavy, slow 3-1/2 inch chambered 12 gauge for preserve pheasant hunting is what is silly. They are far too heavy to be fun, much less enjoyable.

Goose guns and riot guns are universally poor upland hunting choices.