At first, I didn't like the finish on my SPI either. What I did was pick up a quart of boiled linseed oil at the hardware store. Each time I clean the gun (after each trip to the skeet club) I open the BLO, hold the tip of my index finger over the opening, tip up the can, then rub that small amount on my fingertip into the stock finish. I think it takes about three wet fingertips worth to cover the buttstock. I let it stand for a day before it goes back in the safe.

Water or sweat no longer whitens the finish and the stock looks pretty.

 

When I got mine home I wiped it down & coated it in Boiled Linseed Oil. I then let it sit for a day like Desmo, then I coated it in Renaissance Wax. I've had no issues with this method. Multiple full days of shooting with sweat all over the gun & no water spots.

 

x2... Will always put BLO and Ren Wax on the oil finished stocks...

 

This is interesting. My oil finished Beretta stock does not seem to be negatively affected by sweat even without any aftermarket treatments like BLO. Neither is 70% IPA causing a problem. I use that to sanitize my hands after touching the trap controllers, and it takes a little while to dry off.

 

On my 694 it's not the finish but the wood seams to dent or scratch easy ( so did my browning 725)
But with the oil finish I steel wool the scratch then use tongue oil let dry then
Use gun stock wax .

Also be careful of sunscreen on your face and hands it will leave a white cloudy
Finish .

 

On my 694 it's not the finish but the wood seams to dent or scratch easy ( so did my browning 725)
But with the oil finish I steel wool the scratch then use tongue oil let dry then
Use gun stock wax .

Also be careful of sunscreen on your face and hands it will leave a white cloudy
Finish .

Do you use natural like this or solvent based? Danish Oil sometimes lifts the grain and needs to be sanded.

WoodRiver Tung Oil - Natural

Buy the WoodRiver Tung Oil - Natural - Pint for sale online from Woodcraft. Visit us to order online or find your local Woodcraft store today!

www.woodcraft.com

 

I sealed my DT-11 with Watco(just wiped on over existing oil) several light coats over a couple of days. Then Renissance wax over that when dry. And after 2 + years (live it East TX) so yea heat/humidity and rain rolls off and no white spots anywhere/at any point.

 

I sealed my DT-11 with Watco(just wiped on over existing oil) several light coats over a couple of days. Then Renissance wax over that when dry. And after 2 + years (live it East TX) so yea heat/humidity and rain rolls off and no white spots anywhere/at any point.

+10 for Watco {hs#

 

Someday maybe they will upgrade that to a synthetic stock, impervious to rain, water, oil, cracking, and splitting.

 

I sealed my DT-11 with Watco(just wiped on over existing oil) several light coats over a couple of days.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/watco

Watco Teak Oil + Stain Graystone
Teak Oil + Stain

Watco Butcher Block Oil + Stain Hazelnut
Butcher Block Oil + Stain

Watco Danish Oil Dark Walnut
Danish Oil

Watco Natural Exterior Wood Finish Stain Sealant
Exterior Wood Finish

Watco Furniture Refinisher
Furniture Refinisher

Watco Lacquer Gloss
Lacquer Clear Wood Finish

Gloss Crystal Clear
Lacquer Clear Wood Finish Spray

Watco Rejuvenating Oil
Rejuvenating Oil

Watco Dark Satin Finishing Wax
Satin Finishing Wax

Watco Teak Oil
Teak Oil Finish

Watco Tung Oil Finish
Tung Oil

Watco Gloss Finish Wipe On Poly
Wipe-On Poly

Watco Butcher Block Oil & Finish
Butcher Block Oil & Finish

Watco Lacquer + Color Tint Base Light
Lacquer + Color Tint Base

Which one?

 

Which one?

https://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-ca ... danish-oil

Home Depot carries it,some other places probably do as well but that's where I got mine.

 

Which one?

https://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-ca ... danish-oil

Home Depot carries it,some other places probably do as well but that's where I got mine.

Thanks

 

I have a matted 687 stock. Beretta told me to use Old English Lemon oil to prevent wanter stains, if I remember: once or twice a year.

The oil slightly darkens the wood and also brings out the grain.

Randy

 

Great thread! So anyone that uses linseed oil or Old English, do you apply to the inside of the forearm as well? Thanks!

 

I had some bowling alley paste wax , used it my Beretta silver pigeon - easy to apply and buff off & reapply when necessary.
That's my "rain " gun. Water just beads off . Seems to harden wood by sealing open pores
YMMV

 

Has anyone had the chance to handle a new Beretta 694? If so, is the oil rubbed finish like that on the Silver Pigeon? I love my SP1, but had to refinish the stock after buying it. The finish would get white spots on it when the smallest drop of water hit it. It has been very hot in PA and drinking a bottle of water while shooting would drip condensation on the stock. Using Renaissance Wax or Howard's Feed and Wax did not prevent the spots or take them off.
Only after I applied Dembart's checkering oil did water cease to spot the stock.

I would like to save up for a 694, but do not want to refinish a $4000 shotgun.

what did you end up using on the 694 stock? BLO?

 

This was recommended to me. Any experience/opinions? I like more of a CG gloss much better than the standard satin of my 694. Was told this would do the trick. Thanks!

 

I have the 693 (field version of 694) and the oil finish must have been 1% "oil" to 99% solvent. It would soak up sweat, and stay discolored for days. I just added a few very thin coats of Tru-oil, and it is now impervious. I used Tru-oil, because this is a field gun, I had a fresh jar, and it is a totally proven finish for resisting the elements.

The picture is from it's maiden hunt, and you can see how "dry" the finish looked. This was before the additional oil application by me.

 

View attachment 69448
I have the 693 (field version of 694) and the oil finish must have been 1% "oil" to 99% solvent. It would soak up sweat, and stay discolored for days. I just added a few very thin coats of Tru-oil, and it is now impervious. I used Tru-oil, because this is a field gun, I had a fresh jar, and it is a totally proven finish for resisting the elements.

The picture is from it's maiden hunt, and you can see how "dry" the finish looked. This was before the additional oil application by me.

Dry is how mine looks now. Do you think I need to remove the stock, recoil pad, and/or forearm hardware to use the Tru-oil or just hit the exposed surfaces? THANKS!

 

Timberlux is the finish coles recommended.
Beretta used Truoil at the factory for years.
Both take time and patience and multiple thin coats.