first of all welcome. there are acouple of finishes that you can get applied to your gun that is green.

parkerizing is an olive green color, and i think any gunsmith can apply it.

wilson combat has a finish that is green called armor-tuff.

there is also duracoat & you can buy it on all kinds of clors.

now if you want to DIY, i think you can buy a heat resistant flat green or black paint for bar-b-que pits at wal-mart.

when i modified my 870 i just cold blued it & painted the stocks with dupli-color bedliner coat. (wal-mart $6.00 a can)

i hope this helps you out & good luck!!!!!

 

for the topcoat of paint (on top of the blue), i recommend vht paint. the brake and caliper one will do fine. if you're not comfortable putting the barrel in the oven to cure the paint, you can just wait 30 days and it'll be cured. the paint, though, is the toughest spray paint i've found yet, so highly recommended. you can find it at speed shops or some kragens.

 

for the topcoat of paint (on top of the blue), i recommend vht paint. the brake and caliper one will do fine. if you're not comfortable putting the barrel in the oven to cure the paint, you can just wait 30 days and it'll be cured. the paint, though, is the toughest spray paint i've found yet, so highly recommended. you can find it at speed shops or some kragens.

I'm gonna try that on a wilson mag extension that is not dark enough to match the blued gun.

 

Check this thread-
http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=17805

I'm still thinking about getting my 1300 done by them, I really like the way their finishes turn out. And for less than $150, I think it's a really good deal.

 

THANKS GUYS!
That's a big help and a good starting point.

 

Anybody know of any industrial paint products to use other than just the rattle can stuff? I work in an auto body shop so I have access to spray guns, paintbooth, & trisk lamps.

 

.

This guy just used Khaki Rustoleum Camo paint in the rattle can-

He said the durability was better than he expected, he tested it by throwing it in the back of his pickup and driving around doing errands, it only got a couple of scratches. Pretty good for his intended use of covering up existing scratches.

 

My friend at www.azexarms.com sent me the following information.

Duracoat, is a no-bake necessary Polane based automotive paint.

It has several attributes, and several drawbacks.

The Good.

1. No baking

2. Standard measuring mix (except for sheen)

3. flows and sprays well

4. good consistent colors, and many colors availabe.

5. Can be used on Plastics and Optics without damage. (a HUGE +1)

6. It's pretty durable when fully cured

The Bad.

1. tiny amounts are impossible to mix up for touch-ups.

2. 6 hour "pot life" means you have to use what you mix or ruin your spray equip

3. "sheen" is achieved through amount of hardener, this can be tricky to duplicate if you run out during the spray of one firearm, or have parts that were "half-done" when you ran out of Dura-Coat.

4. fully cures in 5 days, even with low temp "speed curing" and it's flippin' SOFT until fully hardened, making reassembly tricky without making scratches.

5. At well over 300.oo per gallon...It's damn expensive, and best results with minimum waste and overspray are achieved with expensive HVLP or airbrush. Not suitable for this operation as airbrushes are finicky and clog easily, and dont hold much material. HVLP is expensive, and clog easily.

6. When time if of the essence, Dura-coat takes MUCH longer to "flash" (that's fancy coating guy speak for "dry to the touch")

KG Gun Kote. is a molybdenum disulfide paint-like substance which is chemically a "solid film lubricant"

The Good

1. Oven curing means I can have a part parked and coated and out of the oven in 1hr.20mins and ready to hand to customer

2. I can leave a "pot" of it out for a week (with a cover) and just put in more MEK which evaporates off while it sat.

3. It's cheaper at only 180 (incl HazMat) per concentrated gallon, and that mixes down into about 16 gallons of sprayable coating. (KG brand is mostly available at "ready to spray" which does not go nearly as far.)

4. Dynamic mix (changes depending on weather and humidity and temp) means I can adapt for most types of weather.

5. sprays and flows well. Too thick? Just add MEK, Too thin, add more material.

6 I've got the most experience with it and for my money it's the most durable (IF APPLIED OVER FRESH PARK)

7. Flows through cheap Harbor Freight automotive touch-up guns well. When they get clogged up, I take them back for exchange. (3 cheers for "extended warranty")

8. "Flashes" in about 45 seconds. So I can get the gun parts coated quickly and get them in the oven (time is money)

9. Goes on thinner than duracoat for close tolerance parts.

The Bad.

1. Dynamic mix is tough to "read", I've got 8 years doing this and sometimes things still wont go right.

2. MEK fumes are horrible, I wear a mask all the time, but I'll probably still die of liver failure by 60. (I'm sure Jim Beam helps)

3. seems to be more sensitive to high humidity (the humidity has stopped all coating operations at AZEX until the damn monsoon season is over)

4. Thinner application makes imperfections more noticable on pitted or damaged guns. So if you make weld or repair, ya gotta be REALLY diligent in the clean up.

There ya go, off the top of my head.

ETA to fix formatting and spelling errors. Also to ask a question, have any of you ever seen one of those crazy Dura-Coat Camo guns after 5K rounds? I havent.
D.
AZEX