I was out at the club today, and after my rounds was engaging in some informal dumpster diving. I found tons of black Remington 12 ga. hulls. They are marked High Velocity. Curious, I cut one open, pleased to find that it was a one piece hull. I cannot find any reference to this hull in my reloading books. Can I use the Nitro/STS data since it appears to have the same internal dimensions? (that would be nice!)
slingup
G
I have used them successfully. I'm not sure if they will last as long as the STS hulls - they may be made of a cheaper plastic.
Watch out, though - some of the black Remingtons have 8-point crimps and some have 6-point crimps. Either is OK, but you need to separate them and use the right crimp starter.
Watch out, though - some of the black Remingtons have 8-point crimps and some have 6-point crimps. Either is OK, but you need to separate them and use the right crimp starter.
The black Remington hulls are listed in the Alliant reloading manual as follows:
Remington-Peters Unibody SP Plastic Shells
I presonally reload these and use the data from the Alliant manual. The other comments on these hulls are correct. They are not as strong as other hulls. I find that they can be reloaded about 3 times and often reload them only once. I simply sort them into two piles: 8 point and 6 point.
One other comment. The load I use involves a CCI 209 primer. It works well. I recently tried to use a load that called for a different primer (not sure, but I think it was a Winchester 209). I was surprised to find that the other primer would not seat. I have never had that happen with any other hull.
Remington-Peters Unibody SP Plastic Shells
I presonally reload these and use the data from the Alliant manual. The other comments on these hulls are correct. They are not as strong as other hulls. I find that they can be reloaded about 3 times and often reload them only once. I simply sort them into two piles: 8 point and 6 point.
One other comment. The load I use involves a CCI 209 primer. It works well. I recently tried to use a load that called for a different primer (not sure, but I think it was a Winchester 209). I was surprised to find that the other primer would not seat. I have never had that happen with any other hull.
Just a follow-up to Sidelock's comment about primer seating. I bought a couple of flats of Rem promo shells (black hulls) while at Cabelas a year or two ago. Primers did not seat as deeply as I would have liked (Win 209) but CCI and Cheddite did. This did not cause any problems on the firing line in any of my guns. I've also experienced primer seating depth problems with Rem Gun Club hulls, but only on a handfull of the GC hulls.
KJB;
Sounds like you have a seating problem. I have to adjust my seating stem differently for those hulls when I load them too or they don't seat the primers deep enough. Not a hull problem.
BP
Sounds like you have a seating problem. I have to adjust my seating stem differently for those hulls when I load them too or they don't seat the primers deep enough. Not a hull problem.
BP
That listing refers to the SP hull, this is not the hull he's dealing with,use the STS dataSidelock said:
It appears the data for the 2 hulls with target powders are very similar, but if you ever load them with field loads i'd use theSidelock said:
12-Gauge, 2 3/4-in. Rem. Premier, STS Plastic Target Shells data in the alliant guide with this hull, it's not an SP hull.the SP is a straight walled hull, the STS, and i'm pretty sure all black remington target hulls are a tapered hull.
BP- Thanks for letting us know about primer seating depth problems with that hull. Since it was a one-time purchase, and I loaded them for throw-away purposes, I did not change my seating depth pressure on my MEC 650. I did mike the primers and put my calipers in the primer hole of the hull but did not find anything out of the ordinary. My normal hulls (AA old style, Fed Paper, Rem STS) have never given me any seating problems regardless of primer.
G
Loading data is interchangeable for the STS and the black promo hulls--per Hogdons manual. One thing that is different is the steel head on the promo hulls vs a brass head on the STS.
Even STS hulls are plated steel, i don't know any shotshell
that actually has a real brass head anymore, the manufacturing costs are a lot cheaper with plated steel,and they're stronger.
that actually has a real brass head anymore, the manufacturing costs are a lot cheaper with plated steel,and they're stronger.
Chase, you are correct! They appear to be plated steel. The AA's aren't magnetic at all, but the black Rem's were. At first I suspected that it was just the primer that was catching the magnet, but it held out on the rim, also. (As for my previously stated snootiness, at least there is no steel to steel contact!)
LOVE EM!!! I use the 8pt crimp ones (don't have a 6pt spindex for my Grabber) over and over and over and over........ They last FOREVER. It's true they're not as "strong" as the STS hulls but they are more flexible-can crimp it more times w/o splitting (they last longer). I have a handful of them that i've loaded at LEAST 15 TIMES and they've still got some mileage left in them. They're the best reloading promo hulls out there, bar none. Another bonus: Most people just toss 'em at the range! The Winchester promo hulls absouletely suck, they're not even worth the box they put them in.
I just checked a few hulls with a magnet. The black Remington hulls with a brass-colored head are magnetic, but neither STS, Federal Gold Metal (plastic), nor AA are (except for the primer, of course).
BTW, if you have access to Hull (brand) shells at a good price, you might be intersted to know that the Hull hulls (that's confusing) are made by Fiocchi, and have the same internal shape and dimensions. I plan to load some using a Fiocchi recipe. I will probably load them once and let them fly from my auto, because they have a separate basewad. Both Fiocchi and Hull hulls have brass-colored magnetic bases.
BTW, if you have access to Hull (brand) shells at a good price, you might be intersted to know that the Hull hulls (that's confusing) are made by Fiocchi, and have the same internal shape and dimensions. I plan to load some using a Fiocchi recipe. I will probably load them once and let them fly from my auto, because they have a separate basewad. Both Fiocchi and Hull hulls have brass-colored magnetic bases.
The Alliant manuals give data for two SP hull designs. The first is called the "Unibody SP Plastic" and the second is called "SP Plastic Shells with Separate Plastic Base Wad."UltraMag said:
My comment applied to the unibody. It is not true that all SP designated Remington hulls have straight walls. If you look at your Lyman 4th Edition, page 38, you will see cut-away side views of the Unibody and the RTL. Both are tapered. The difference is that there is a depressed ring around the primer pocket which is clearly visable to the reloader. I just checked samples of both the 6 and 8 point crimp BLACK unibody hulls. Both have the characteristic ring on the inside, around the primer pocket. Both have steel case heads (checked them with a magnet).
I believe that the hulls mentioned in the first message are steel head, SP unibody hulls.
Sidelock
your correct,
i've never heard of a unibodied Sp hull, but i have now,
thanks for enlightening me.
i've never heard of a unibodied Sp hull, but i have now,
thanks for enlightening me.
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