First, all those Remington hulls that you reference in your post can be loaded with the same recipe. I've so done many times. If I could have only one 12 gauge hull, it would be the STS/Nitro/Premier. Gun Clubs would be the second choice due to longevity of the hull.

The nomenclature on the hulls you've found simply means that they have been loaded to the maximum allowable for sporting clays, namely 1 1/8 oz of shot. Likely, 7 1/2 is the largest shot size used by most shooters of sporting clays.

There are recipes for those hulls that let you load from 3/4 oz all the way up to 1 1/2 oz.

 

Could you reference where I might find these recipes for the Nitro Gold specifically?
Is the Nitro the same as the Nitro Gold?

 

If it says NITRO in a listing with Remington hulls it's your hull. It is the same as the Remington STS with the exception of the plastic pigment color. Any of the powder company's data, published or on line will have data for your hull. It will say something like, Remington STS, Nitro 27, Premier, Gun Club, etc. They are all interchangeable. All Remington Nitro hulls, 27, Sporting, etc are GOLD. Not all GOLD are 27s however.

I think you understand the printed nomenclature on the hulls is in no way limiting your selection of shot size, shot charge, or powder charge. It only tells what that particular hull was loaded with at the factory, nothing more, nothing less.

BP

 

Hello: All of the Remington Nitro, STS and even Gun Club all load the same. Look at the Claybuster or Alliant websites to pick your loads. Great hulls by the way. Load them till they split. Thanks, Eric

 

how much do once fired hulls actually sell for? maybe I will stop tossing mine

 

Depending on the hull, from next to nothing (can't give them away) to around .20 @. Good, once fired Remington and Winchester 12 ga hulls from .03 to .06 @ with that .05 @ for STS/Nitro and AAs most places. Supply and demand will dictate but these are ball park real numbers. I see them at places like Cabela's and Sheel's for a dime each, Just say NO! 28 ga and .410 AAHS hulls can be almost more valuable than new loaded shells, well over half many times. Who's the fool in that picture?

BP

 

ok so I wont bother keeping them lol. The hassle of counting, packing up and shipping 500 hulls isn't worth the $5-$20 I would make.

 

I load all Remington hulls the same.

 

ok so I wont bother keeping them lol. The hassle of counting, packing up and shipping 500 hulls isn't worth the $5-$20 I would make.

While they may not be worth shipping they certainly are worth something to shooters who reload them. I am one of those guys.

Even if you get a few cents each locally it's better than leaving them on the ground or in the trash.

 

Living on a college budget, I happily pack up hundreds of hulls for $20. And if I find AA .410? Oh my, its like another birthday. I've got 3 plastic tubs full just waiting for winter break to come around so I can empty them out! Oh and for 500 hulls, you are looking at $25 for hulls even of only $0.025 each. Double that for STS/Nitro. Considering that comes out to $20-$40 easy for not even an hour of work...I'd say it aint too bad of a deal. Just tedious.

And to the OP. All Remington hulls are the same (excluding buck, steel, etc. don't know about those). So the black game loads, gun clubs, sts/nitro...all the same hull. Just a different color and for some, material. You can also us AA's with Remington load data, but don't worry about that right now. Just know if it is a Remington target hull, it will take Remington reloading data.

 

Could you reference where I might find these recipes for the Nitro Gold specifically?
Is the Nitro the same as the Nitro Gold?

Remington plays pretty loose with that NITRO name. They apply it to many of their high performance or premium loads, and the "Nitro" printed on the hull doesn't mean it's all the same hull.

I have some 2.75" & 3" Remington Nitro Steel hulls on my bench right now that are the SP, Type-6, Yellow Basewad hulls, along with a couple 3.5" Nitro Turkey hulls of the same construction:

Compare the inner basewad. The hulls you have are the Remington Unibody hull, known as STS/Nitro27/Gun Club/Sport Load and are a one piece molded hull with an inner taper. The Type-6 SP hull has a separate yellow or black basewad and is a true straightwall hull of much larger capacity:

All of the Unibody STS/Nitro27/Gun Club/Sport Load hulls have the same internal dimensions and load with the same data, and those are the hull names you should use for data for your gold hulls.

You are not likely to pick up many of the Type-6 hulls on a clays range but around here a lot of guys like to tune up before season with the loads they will use in the field, and they do show up from time to time. Since you are new to this, it's good that you learn how to tell the difference.

 

Cerberus,

Good post. I've not been around any of the 3" or 3-1/2", steel or turkey loads. I didn't realize Remington was throwing the Nitro tag around like cracked corn in the hen house. I assumed, and I think correctly, the op was referring to target load hulls. But, it's always good to learn something new.

Thanks for pointing this out!

BP

 

Cerberus,

Good post. I've not been around any of the 3" or 3-1/2", steel or turkey loads. I didn't realize Remington was throwing the Nitro tag around like cracked corn in the hen house. I assumed, and I think correctly, the op was referring to target load hulls. But, it's always good to learn something new.

Thanks for pointing this out!

BP

You were correct, that's the hull he asked about.

When it comes to naming conventions, Remington's sloppy use of "Nitro" is about the worst.

Winchester comes in second with "Super-X" which, like Remington Nitro, could mean just about anything, using Universal/AAHS-type hulls to a variety of European and homegrown straightwall hulls, all of which load a little differently.

It's really difficult for a new reloader to "follow every recipe exactly" while trying to sort out this mess of hull names vs. hull type.

 

Great input from everyone, really helps to clear up the questions that would later on be assumed as a no brainer but for me now i hesitate. So, thank you!
SuperXThree I think it's great you are taking the time to package up shotshell hulls and make a little extra xash. No use letting them all go to waste in trash cans! But out of curiosity you mention when you find a shell", so this means you are going to a local club and scavenging the shells? So how do you determine what is once shot and what is not. I understand that if something were on its second load the shooter would most likely be picking it up to use it again in most cases. Just curious how you determine what is once fired and what is not? Also do you have to sort through them assuring none were stepped on etc..?

 

One fairly reliable way (but not 100%) is to look at the primer. Rem primers are all brass colored in the GC, STS, and Nitro Gold cases. I don't know of anyone who uses Rem primers In their reloads because of the cost. So if you find what appears to be a once fired Rem case with a Rem primer there is a pretty good likelihood that it is once fired

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Kind of hard to describe but if you dive enough dumpsters and root through enough trash cans you get a feel for "once fired." On Remingtons the primer is a good indication. It does not work so well on the gray ones, but on the the red AA's I look at the crimp folds. Clean, sharp, no splits and shiny red is once fired. On most shells the plastic at the crimp end is fairly soft and pliable on once fired. More reloads and it gets harder, stiffer, and begins to fold inwards.

If you are buying used hulls you want to know if they are once fired. If you are scrounging them yourself it is really not all that important. Most reloaders have their own criteria as to time to scrap or good enough to reload. If it does not meet your criteria toss it back in the bin.

 

Good tips! I'll be looking at the primers on the nitros

 

. . . It's really difficult for a new reloader to "follow every recipe exactly" while trying to sort out this mess of hull names vs. hull type.

Cerberus-
"Mess" is really a mild word to describe the situation regarding the nomenclatural tangle of hull types.

Out out curiosity, is there a written or on-line reference that's easily accessible for novice reloaders to use in deciphering what is a "Type 6" hull? The term has been used by a few posters here. It's not used by Lyman, Alliant or Hodgdon as a hull ID, and it's not used by Remington. (Lyman #5 isn't even internally consistent, using three different names for the hull.)

Is there a "Type 5" or a "Type 7"? "Type" seems to be a sort of inaccessible code word.

Thanks.
--Bob

 

Yeah, it has to be confusing. We always tell a new reloader to get the Lymans manual. We always tell them Gun Clubs are real good hulls (all good advice). Of course the manual we all recommend makes zero mention of the hull we all recommend. It also says AACF and AAHS reload the same. This is kind of sort of true sometimes but it will go a lot better if you don't use the same wad in both. I think AAHS is a great hull and it reloads well but I usually recommend Remington to new reloader just so they will not have to tackle the correct wad or bucked case wall issue.

 

Great input from everyone, really helps to clear up the questions that would later on be assumed as a no brainer but for me now i hesitate. So, thank you!
SuperXThree I think it's great you are taking the time to package up shotshell hulls and make a little extra xash. No use letting them all go to waste in trash cans! But out of curiosity you mention when you find a shell", so this means you are going to a local club and scavenging the shells? So how do you determine what is once shot and what is not. I understand that if something were on its second load the shooter would most likely be picking it up to use it again in most cases. Just curious how you determine what is once fired and what is not? Also do you have to sort through them assuring none were stepped on etc..?

A lot of them were shot by me. Some were just given to me. Although many others I would just pick up at shoots. State trap shoot was like a mini gold mine for premium hulls. But I also work some at a gun club now that I've moved to Missouri, so I have access to plenty of places on days I work to dig around. I don't do it as nearly as much now since most of the ammo I shoot is school provided, but I still pick up sub gauge when I see them. Although the stash I have left over from when I did a lot of reloading is still huge.

After a while you learn what is once fired and what is not. Check the primer and the mouth of the hull. If it looks worn or has a different primer, then it is reloaded. If it just doesn't look once fired I don't pick it up unless I was going to load it myself. And yes, I toss out the ones that have been stepped on while I am packing them up if I even picked one up.

 

. . . It's really difficult for a new reloader to "follow every recipe exactly" while trying to sort out this mess of hull names vs. hull type.

Cerberus-
"Mess" is really a mild word to describe the situation regarding the nomenclatural tangle of hull types.

Out out curiosity, is there a written or on-line reference that's easily accessible for novice reloaders to use in deciphering what is a "Type 6" hull? The term has been used by a few posters here. It's not used by Lyman, Alliant or Hodgdon as a hull ID, and it's not used by Remington. (Lyman #5 isn't even internally consistent, using three different names for the hull.)

Is there a "Type 5" or a "Type 7"? "Type" seems to be a sort of inaccessible code word.

Thanks.
--Bob

Ya know, that's a really good question and the only answer I can give is hellifiknow.

This hull name thing is such a cluster f*** that when I make a reference I try to include every name I have known the hull to be referenced by at least somewhere.

That Remington hull (or versions of it) has been listed as the SP Plastic Hunting, Type-6, SP Type-6, and SP Plastic with Yellow Basewad (even though some basewad are black or gray). To make matters worse there was another very similar Remington hull with a hard compressed asbestos-like material for a basewad called the Remington-Peters SP Plastic(Lyman#3) and this basewad is much higher then he current yellow or black ones.

Now, for a real head scratcher, I have some 3" black Remington hulls marked "Sportsman Steel" that have the flat yellow basewad and some 2.75" black hulls with the same Sportman Steel marking that are simply black Gun Club Unibody hulls.

 

Great input from everyone, really helps to clear up the questions that would later on be assumed as a no brainer but for me now i hesitate. So, thank you!
SuperXThree I think it's great you are taking the time to package up shotshell hulls and make a little extra xash. No use letting them all go to waste in trash cans! But out of curiosity you mention when you find a shell", so this means you are going to a local club and scavenging the shells? So how do you determine what is once shot and what is not. I understand that if something were on its second load the shooter would most likely be picking it up to use it again in most cases. Just curious how you determine what is once fired and what is not? Also do you have to sort through them assuring none were stepped on etc..?

A lot of them were shot by me. Some were just given to me. Although many others I would just pick up at shoots. State trap shoot was like a mini gold mine for premium hulls. But I also work some at a gun club now that I've moved to Missouri, so I have access to plenty of places on days I work to dig around. I don't do it as nearly as much now since most of the ammo I shoot is school provided, but I still pick up sub gauge when I see them. Although the stash I have left over from when I did a lot of reloading is still huge.

After a while you learn what is once fired and what is not. Check the primer and the mouth of the hull. If it looks worn or has a different primer, then it is reloaded. If it just doesn't look once fired I don't pick it up unless I was going to load it myself. And yes, I toss out the ones that have been stepped on while I am packing them up if I even picked one up.

Sounds like repetitive work, but worth the money like you mentioned in your first post. After more replies about the primers I understand how you could identify them fairly easy along with your experience.

 

Although the Lyman manual (5th ) is a good reference, I'm thinking it's time for #6. Just the number of new powders alone is enough, then add aftermarket wads like clay busters, different primers like Cheddite, new hulls, etc.
They may not sell as many copies as they once would have, but there's still a market.

 

They may not sell as many copies as they once would have, but there's still a marke

If it comes out, I will buy it as will a lot of the members here.

 

Very repetitive. Probably one of the most mind numbing things you can do with your time. But hey, $40 is $40 if you got some STS hulls to sell. I think the large flat rate boxes I mailed to a guy in Hawaii was around 450 hulls and I probably sent him 4 or 5 boxes.