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Savage 210

8.7K views 21 replies 6 participants last post by  Twofer  
#1 ·
Im hot on the hunt for a new slug rig and am leaning hard in the direction of a Savage 210. I have read every post on this and other forums and they all have a few things in common, most say they guns do not feed or extract well.

I called Joe Degrande at Savage and he told me that the gun was built around the 3 inch round and that the 2 3/4 will not always cycle well. He also said that the gun comes with a 1 peice base and that is the only base that should be used because the spent round bounces off the base and out of the gun. Joe also said to use high rings.

So here is my issue, I hate 1 peice bases and high rings never fit me. Is this what you guys are running? How many off you have feeding issues with 2 3/4 inch ammo? Is there a 2 peice base that will work or do you need to really run the 1 peice base? Is there a cure for the feeding issue? I recall seeing where someone rounded off the right extractor, does this work?

It looks to me like short of a TAR-HUNT the savage is the way to go but with a 3 incher it has got to kick your azz and I really dont want a gun that only feeds well with 3 inch ammo. What about porting? Has anyone done that?

Man is it hard to find a accurate, reliable slug gun ........
 
#2 ·
I was the one who posted the right-side extractor claw fix. It seems that there are possibly two versions of extractor claws going around. Some guns have the problem, and some don't. It is nothing that you should think twice about before buying the gun, because it is such a simple fix. My 210 cycles extremely well without any issues after the grind. 2-3/4 cycles just fine, though I have only put about 10 of that size through the gun, as I shoot longer shells.

Truthfully, if you are proficient with 2-3/4, there is no reason why you wouldn't be with 3". Recoil should not even be realized with enough trigger time. If you are realizing the recoil, you are most likely pulling the shot.

Here is what I believe about shotguns. If you study precision rifles, it can easily be seen that bolt-actions generate the stiffness required to yield the most accurate rifles. Shotguns are no different than big rifles. I believe if someone is completely serious about available accuracy, they will choose one of the bolt-action shotguns available. The three which immediately come to mind are the Browning A-Bolt, Tar-hunt, and Savage 210. The real question is, which one of those can you afford?
 
#5 ·
Passport said:
Than ks Slug Warrior, are these guns gloss or matt finish?
They are going to be blued finish. So I guess you would consider that a gloss when oiled. But, you can parkerize anything. Do it yourself cheaply, or have it done for probably about $100.

I parkerized my 210, since I live in a humid environment. Now it has a semi-gloss or somewhat matte finish.
 
#6 ·
Pass,
they told me the same thing when I called Savage. also that it kicks pretty good. And I drove round trip 200 plus miles to put one in my hand. They loaded it with some dummy shells, and we messed with ejecting and loading, I can see where issue comes in. There a bit tricky to load, and they want to eject up, not as much out. it would take some getting use to. The trigger was heavy, but the action was good. I'm with you trying to get a good solid slugger with minimal issues. Everyone here seems to like there 210's. Personally I think it's either a 210 or I may wait for that Remington super slugger to come out, I've read and heard good reviews about that gun as well.
Deerhunter
 
#7 ·
DEERHUNTER10 said:
Pass,
they told me the same thing when I called Savage. also that it kicks pretty good. And I drove round trip 200 plus miles to put one in my hand. They loaded it with some dummy shells, and we messed with ejecting and loading, I can see where issue comes in. There a bit tricky to load, and they want to eject up, not as much out. it would take some getting use to. The trigger was heavy, but the action was good. I'm with you trying to get a good solid slugger with minimal issues. Everyone here seems to like there 210's. Personally I think it's either a 210 or I may wait for that Remington super slugger to come out, I've read and heard good reviews about that gun as well.
Deerhunter
Deerhunter,

I have the low rings on mine and while admittedly it did take little getting used to while loading and ejecting I am satisfied with its performance. (The only time had the opportunity to shoot a buck twice I did so in less than seconds. Both shots blew up the boiler room and shoulder to the extent that either would have been more than enough for the job).

As for the trigger, that is a given replacement. I am currently experimenting with the SAV-2 in my gun after becoming unhappy with the performance of the Timney I had. The Sav-2 trigger is effectively a competition quality trigger and breaks perfectly at my 2.75lb setting.

JC
 
#8 ·
As for the trigger, that is a given replacement. I am currently experimenting with the SAV-2 in my gun after becoming unhappy with the performance of the Timney I had. The Sav-2 trigger is effectively a competition quality trigger and breaks perfectly at my 2.75lb setting.

JC[/quote]

What didn't you like about the timney?

What is the cost difference, and is it any harder to install?

E
 
#9 ·
bowhunter_WI said:
What didn't you like about the timney?....What is the cost difference, and is it any harder to install?
The Timney simply pivots on a central pin much as the original trigger does. This allows for a meaningful amount of swivel left to right of the assembly. As you can imagine, at low trigger pull settings, when the sear should sit parallel to the rest of the mechanism for consistency, it often does not. This results in inconsistent trigger pull pressure from shot to shot.

Realistically, what this means is that your 2 3/4lb may release at 2 3/4 or 2 1/4 depending on the angle the trigger is sitting at relative to the pin. Or in other words, if you want a minimum 2 3/4lb trigger pull you really need to set the pull at 3 1/4 to protect against the situations where it releases at 2 3/4.

Addtionally, the trigger pull is controlled by a set screw and spring. That spring always sits against the safety. Over time, not only does that spring bend potentially changing your pull weight, if it moves far enough it simply dislodges and leaves you with no trigger.

The only alternative to all of these problems is simply to set the trigger above 3 1/2lbs or so minimum.

Finally, after years of what appeared to be good service, my trigger eventually experienced all of these problems at once...the result was a slam fire at the range. Of course this could have resulted in a catastrophe at any other time.

...Now, as for the SAV-2. Yes it does take more work to install and cost more. The timney is about $90 and the SAV-2 is closer to $150, (though I did find mine new for $120).

I must point out that I did just install this recently and while it fits and functions fine for shooting, after installing it I did find that it does appear to have a small part blocking the bolt release. I am relatively certainly correcting this is only a matter of filing a small metal part slight but I have not completed the procedure yet since I do not want to disassemble the trigger at this point in the season.

All that being said, the design and stability appears to be leagues ahead of the Timney and the trigger appears to be capable of safely functioning at weights below 2lbs.

If you would like any additional info please ask...

JC

Below is the Timney...below that the SAV-2, (notice the lateral support which the Timney lacks)

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Image
 
#11 ·
Hey Guys,

Not wanting to be responsible for providing incomplete advice, and determined to get this phase of the Savage 210 stock and trigger update finally 100% completed, I just went ahead and broke down the trigger.

I am please to report, much as I suspected, that the issue was nothing more than a simple fitting job. Specifically, due to the difference in the Sav-2 trigger housing vs the the factory trigger the bolt release which remains a factory part simply is not allowed to swivel back as far is would be able to from the factory. This prevents the bolt stop from retracting completely out of the raceway.

The fix is positively simple. Remove the bolt stop, file the stop slightly to fit, and replace. The whole procedure, which now that it realize it needed to be done, should be completed at the time of the trigger install should take less than 10 minutes including testing for fit.

So there you have it...the two fitting jobs that need to be done to fit this trigger are to slightly file the bolt release, and to inlet the trigger to allow the new trigger housing to recess into it.

As always, any questions please feel free to ask....

JC

Below is a picture of the bolt release after completion. After that is a picture of the trigger gaurd after inletting to fit the Sav-2

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JC
 
#12 ·
BTW,

I just tested the trigger at 1 1/2lbs while I was working on it. It operated flawlessly and passed a relatively severe bump test with no problems. (Can't really bang to hard in it in the house)

I suspect if tested properly and handled with the appropriate amount of care this trigger is easily capable of 1lb performance on the low side. (Not that one needs that for hunting, only that it is sure measure of quality of design)

JC

Here is my actual trigger group...

Image
 
#13 ·
JC,

I believe you just persuaded me to buy a SAV-2 trigger.

That is the Rifle Basix SAV-2, correct?

Saying that you had a slam fire downright scares me about that Timney. I can just imagine the danger from a heavy load firing from an unlocked bolt. :shock:

The only true mod to install the SAV-2 is the opening of the trigger hole in the stock, correct?
 
#14 ·
Slug Warrior said:
The only true mod to install the SAV-2 is the opening of the trigger hole in the stock, correct?
Slug,

Technically it is not even the stock. It is the trigger gaurd. In fact even if you screwed anything up you can always purchase aftermarket upgrade gaurds in aluminum anyways.

As for the slam fire....heck yeah! I jumped halfway off the bench when that gun fired. Remember, due the exceptionally large size and weight of the 210 bolt these guns are extremely prone to such a problem simply as a function of the inertia generated when sliding that huge bolt home.

JC
 
#15 ·
I have a Savage 210F that I used for one season to take two deer before putting it aside to play with a Browning A-bolt.

The first thing I did to the Savage 210 F was to install the Rifle Basix trigger. The install was easy and the tigger has worked great for me so far. I have only put between 100 and 200 rounds through the gun, so I don't have a lot of trigger time on it, though.

I also had major feed problems with the gun out of the box. I didn't realize I had feed problems until I was actually hunting with the gun (since I always fed the rounds in single hot while shooting at the range). The gun practically never successfully cycled a round. I just used the gun as a single shot that first hunting season. After the season, I had my local gun smith work on the gun to improve the feeding. With a sufficient amount of muscle, the gun will now feed most of the time, but it is still not satisfactory.

I will revisit the feed issue using the info posted in other threads about the too-sharp extractor claw and the too-high rim guides on the bolt face.

--twofer
 
#16 ·
Twofer said:
The first thing I did to the Savage 210 F was to install the Rifle Basix trigger.
Twofer,

Rifle Basix makes two triggers for the 110/210. One is essentially a modified version of the factory trigger and is similar to the Timney. The other, the Sav-2, is completely different than either the factory or Timney trigger.

Can you let us know which model you have, what weight of pull are you using and how it is performing?

JC
 
#17 ·
jcchartboy - I installed the SAV-1 Rifle Basix trigger in my Savage 210F. I know this is the lower grade trigger available from Rifle Basix, but I have been quite satisfied with it for the less-than-200 rounds I have put through the gun. Installation was drop dead easy.

Once hunting season is over, I will revisit the feed problems I am having with my Savage 210F. If I can get the gun to feed well, I would consider upgrading to the SAV-2 trigger.

My Browning A-Bolt is a very nice slug gun, with good functionality from the start. However, I am starting to conclude that it has the same level of accuracy as the 210F. If I can get the 210F to feed well, I will continue my personal testing of the commercially available loads in the 210F to see if I can find something that consistently shoots sub-2" to use as my hunting round. Due to the 210F feeding problems, I have been concentrating on finding a good load for the A-Bolt.

The best that I have found for the A-Bolt, so far) is a 2.44" average (four 3-shot groups at 100 yds averaged together) with the Hastings Magnum Laser Accurate Sabot Slug (3" shell, 1-1/4 oz weight, 1625 fps stated MV).

The best single group from the 210F was a 2.70" group (3-shot group at 100 yds) using Winchester Super X BRI Sabot Slug (3" shell, 1 oz weight, 1400 fps stated MV). I did not do any averaging, though, so I don't know how representative this 2.70" group is.

--twofer
 
#18 ·
Twofer said:
However, I am starting to conclude that it has the same level of accuracy as the 210F. --twofer
After owning four different A-bolt's I definitively determined the same thing! (At least with regards to my particular 210)

Have you adjusted the trigger on your A-bolt? (Very easy to do if you have not)

As for the accuracy of the SAvage 210 goes I find sub-2MOA groups to very attainable with the Remington Core Lokts though admittedly that is at the edge of my abilities with the gun.

Here are the last two groups I shot with my 210 about three weeks ago...

JC

Image

Image
 
#19 ·
jcchartboy - those are definitely good groups!

I shot a single 3-shot group at 50yds with the Remington Core-Lokts (Core-Lokt Ultra Hollow Point Magnum Bonded Sabot Slug, 2-3/4" shell, 7/8 oz weight, 1525 fps stated MV) in my 210F. That group measured 2.39" (When I first got my 210F, I started testing it at 50yds because that was the closest range to me, and I was unaware of the down range instability that some sabot rounds exhibit. I have since become a little wiser, and now do all my testing at 100yds.)

The best group I ever got at 50yds with the 210F was 0.50," again a 3-shot group. This was with Hevishot Sabot Slug (2-3/4" shell, 1-1/4 oz, 1500fps stated MV). I was pretty dang happy with that group since I thought it meant I had a bonafide 1 MOA slug gun. When I tested this loading at 100 yds, it printed a 6.5" 3-shot group (yes, over six inches)! Thus, I had my first experience with the dreaded down range instability of sabot rounds.

My experience with the Hevishot loading made me realize that since I do get 100 yd shots at deer, I better be doing my testing at 100 yds because performance at 50 yds with a sabot slug does not necessarily indicate performance at 100 yds.

I am currently hunting with the A-bolt and shooting the Remington AccuTips (2-3/4" shell, 7/8 oz weight, 1850 fps stated MV). This load usually (but not always) prints under 3" in my A-Bolt, which is good enough for deer hunting.

All slug testing is on hold for now because I am spending my little free time hunting. Once hunting is over, I will continue load development on the new barrel on my Kimber Montana. Then, the slug rounds will start to fly . . .

--twofer
 
#20 ·
Twofer said:
jcchartboy - those are definitely good groups!

--twofer
Thanks Twofer,

I can tell you without question that while my shooting abilities have increased slightly over the past year there is simply no way to consistently shoot top quality groups like that without a very high quality trigger and a gun that fits well in a very good rest.

Along those lines as you know I recently removed the mag well on my Savage, improved the trigger, and I also refined my benchrest setup to increase accuracy.

Basically, my point being, I think I have just about reached the absolute practical accuracy limits of the 210 for a standard bench setup. That seems to be 2 MOA. As a comparison, below is a recent 3 shot group I shot with one of my better rifles, which is fitted with a jewel trigger, and using the same exact rests.

My conclusion from these results are...I am as happy with a sub 2-MOA group with a Savage as I am with a sub .5 MOA group with a rifle. Years of shooting the 210 have taught me that achieving either requires the same level of accuracy success and is something to very happy with when it is achieved!

JC

Image
 
#21 ·
jcchartboy - wow . . . very nice group with the Accubond.

With my Kimber Montana in .300 WSM with a Bartlein barrel in a light sporter contour, the best I have shot is a 0.75" 3-shot group at 100 yds with 180 gn Woodleigh SP bullets. In my rifle, the Accubonds printed a 1.65" group with the Bartlein barrel and a 1.95" group with the factory Kimber barrel.

I agree that shooter skill becomes starts to become the limiting factor for going much below a 1" group with a standard hunting rifle configuration. This is something I don't hear much from a lot of the hunters talking about their 1" shooters, i.e. how much they had to practice their shooting skills to turn in a 1" group.

For someone who is just an accuracy-minded hunter like me (rather than a serious benchrest competitor with a heavy rifle made to do nothing but shoot tight groups off a bench), shooting something tighter than a 1" group takes a lot of practice. I won't know whether my 0.75" group with the Woodleighs was just a statistical fluke or something repeatable until I get some more rounds loaded and do more testing.

I do know that this lightweight Kimber Montana will be a fine elk rifle ready for the Colorado high country when I am done.

--twofer