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shim adjustments

7.3K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  Jim H  
#1 ·
ok guys help me out a little here as i am Beretta Iliterate. i recently aquired a Urika 2 and have adjusted the pength of pull to suite me as well as the cast off, however i am confused as to how much drop i want. basicly what i want to know is wil the lower # have my pattern higher or lower in terms of where i hold the barrel to the target. i put in the 50 to start but if my POI is either too high or too low in regards to my point of aim which way do i want to go with the next shim. if it is too high do i use a lower number shim or a higher number shim to bring the pattern down. i know once i do it i should notice a differance in how my view down the barrel rib is thus clueing me in, but i would like to go in the right direction the first time. by the way if it helps or matters i'm on the height challenged side, being only 5'-6". (and old)
 
#2 ·
Jim, I don't know if this is going to help you or not, but here goes.

"Drop adjustment" isn't there to change POI, it is there to help your gun fit you better. The vast majority of field guns shoot essentially flat.

When shooting at a moving target, you likely don't even notice the bead. I don't. It is there, of course, but only in a subliminal sense. It is shooting with your eyes, more than "rifle complex" intentional aiming-- the exception being turkey.

If you see rib during your normal gunmount, you will likely be shooting way high. A reason folks miss pheasants, for example, the that they are so excited when a rooster hollers and jumps-- they hit the trigger before they have a good stockweld. If you do that, before the buttstock is in the pocket, you'll shoot over them by a mile most every time.

So, different people want their stocks to fit differently-- some do want a tiny bit of rib showing for trap so they can float the bird, etc. Not always a good approach for sporting clays, for example, when you might have as many or more dropping shots than rising targets.

When I snap a shotgun to my shoulder, I don't want to see any rib at all. If I see rib, I need more drop (that would mean going from a 50mm to a 55 or 60mm shim in a B-80 or 303, for example).

The picture I want is no rib at all, just bead, and a bead that vanishes with a little extra cheek pressure. There are variations on that theme, of course, we all have our own stylistic and personal preference considerations.

For me, it is always no visible rib and just a bead for reasonable "field gun fit."
 
#3 ·
Randy thanks, you've given me the exact insight i was looking for. as i mentioned earlier i knew that depending on how much rib i saw when i shouldered the gun it would effect where i was aiming. (or thought i was aiming) i do not shoot clays so while i understand what is going on i may not be useing the right words to express it. and yes, i too like no rib showing when i throw the gun up and shoulder it. but i am a field hunter and like to hunt both birds and critters. but i really like beeding down on a big old tom. and with the tighter chokes that i shoot for that, i need to know were that pattern is going. not to mention proper stock fit to keep me comfy when i let that turkey load roar.
 
#5 ·
Then take it out to the range and use the pattern board. Shoot at 35 yards with a Mod. choke by mounting the gun while looking at the pattern board and shooting. Do not aim the gun. Adjust the shim from there, you want the gun to "SHOOT WHERE YOU LOOK" not where you aim. Obtain a 60/40 pattern on the board at where you are looking and I know you will be impressed with the results in the field or on a clay course.
 
#7 ·
Tin Man said:
Obtain a 60/40 pattern on the board at where you are looking and I know you will be impressed with the results in the field or on a clay course.
60 above and 40 below? or the otherway around?
(don't get worried, i'm talking about the spread of the pattern not the shims) yes as mentioned i understand about keeping the shims and spacers matched up with the same numbers.
thanks a bunch guys now i can tweek this thing to my liking.
 
#8 ·
I set mine up to shoot a 60/40 with 60% of the shot at or slightly above the "visual" aim point of the pattern board, with 40% of the shot at or slightly below. For the shot I just float the target off the top of the barrel, with established lead it should get'er done. That's me, your own sight picture is your own thing, just be sure to get the gun shooting where you are looking. When I shoot a clay I never look at the rib or barrel, I look at the target leading edge and the computer between your hands puts the barrel in the proper position. If anything I see it's the float of the target as I swing through. Look at the barrel or rib and you stop the gun everytime. If your gun is shooting low the target would have to be covered by the barrel to break it. that would be a 40/60 set up.
 
#9 ·
Jim H said:
... basicly what i want to know is wil the lower # have my pattern higher or lower ...
I'm old too, (but age brings wisdom). :)

A lower numbered shim will result in the gun shooting higher. Less drop at the comb means the rear sight - your eye - is raised. Same principle as sighting a rifle /w iron sights.

My 391 shot at least 80/20 (too high) with the C-60-DX. (I'm right handed and ~6' in sneakers).

I changed to the C-65-DX and it shot flat.

Then added a 1/8" Kick-EEZ cheek pad which put it 60/40 at 21 Yds /w Skeet choke and about 70/30 at 40 Yds with the Improved Mod. Perfect for me for Skeet, Sporting Clays, and even the occasional Trap session.
 
#10 ·
guys thanks for all the info/help i now have a good idea of which way to go if the gun is not shooting to my prefernces. i'll make sure i get back with you all with my results but it will be a while, i'm haveing some minor surgery in two weeks and it'll be a month or so after that before i can shoot again. i'm getting it out this weekend, and hopefully next weekend. again thanks for clearing up the whole process. (beretta could be a bit more descriptive in their manual on whats going on with that stuff)
 
#11 ·
well i got the beretta to the range today. i didn't do too bad at all with it even though there was way too much rib showing for my taste. i had the 55 shim in it and after i got back home i swaped it out with the 65 shim and now when i mount the gun all i see is the receiver and the bead at the end of the barrel. i'll get it out next week and see how i shoot with it and try it on the patterning board too. overall i'm happy with it. now just to get some range time in with it. thanks again for all your help explaining how it all wotked.
 
#12 ·
After almost 2 years shooting with the 60mm shim factory installed, I switched to the 65. My sporting scores on my home course jumped an average of 9 to 10 birds. I used to be in the low to mid 80's. Immediately after the switch, I started shooting in the 90's. My lowest score of the past month and a half was a 91. Just last week I shot a personal best of 96. I wish I would have done this a long time ago.

Pat Brophy
 
#13 ·
Good for you Runngun! A gun that shoots where you want is a wonderful thing and the shim adjustments are such an improvement from what we had in the past.

I've had my 391 for about 7 months and was hoping to break 80 at SC for the first time today - and ran a 91.