As promised here is a brief review on the Spolar loader. This is not an attempt to promote the Spolar, I'm just providing some basic info. When I was looking into this loader I found it difficult to get info so this material may help others.
Here is a photo from the front:
![Image]()
This loader is very nice looking and obviously well made. The gold parts are anodized aluminum. The main turret is black anodized aluminum but the remaining black parts are steel. The loader is quite heavy, 50lbs+.
I did not get the hydraulic option. Too expensive and I have no where to fit that equipment. Plus I could not stand the constantly running motor. ATS is coming out with an electric drive system for this loader and I will look into that if I feel I need more speed.
The base is 13.5"x8". Height is 31". You need a lot of depth. The primer tray is 22" deep from the front of the base and you need a full 33" to open it fully. You don't have to open it fully but it is harder to fill if you can't. I am thinking about hacksawing the primer tray in half because it interferes with a tool called a CasePro that I use to resize 38Super cases for my target pistol. Primer capacity is 400 but I could live with 200. You also need a solid loading bench since a flimsy bench would be rocking around as you push/pull the handle. The handle sticks out 12.5" from the bench when in the down position if you mount the tool flush at the front.
One annoying feature is that loaded shells eject very low:
![Image]()
I refuse to cut a big hole in my loading bench so I am using a cookie tray to catch the loaded shells. The tray holds about 100 shells and works fine. Note that the ATS electric drive unit raises the Spolar up several inches which would eject the shells high enough to use a much bigger bin to catch the loaded shells. That's another reason I refuse to cut a hole in my bench since I may get the ATS later.
Here is the tool setup to load and with the turret full:
![Image]()
I am right handed. Right now I put the hulls on the left and wads on the right. You must hand feed hulls and wads. After running a Dillon with a casefeeder for a few months, feeding cases sucks but I will get used to it. You can also put the hulls and wads on the left side and reach across to insert the wads. I am using two hands on the downstroke but it is easy with one hand, much easier than my Grabber. Speed is faster with one hand on the handle and the other hand feeding hulls and wads but it is fast enough for me using two hands on the handle which slows down wad feeding.
Another annoying feature is the primer feed system. It is not a true gravity feed, instead it uses a small, noisy vibration motor to "buzz" the primers into the track. The vibration also settles the powder and shot I suppose. Fortunately, the buzzing motor only runs for a second at the bottom of the downstroke but my wife can still hear it in the TV room 50 feet away.
Here is the primer setup. The buzz motor is just under the tray and the switch box is at the bottom of the frame:
![Image]()
Here is how the Spolar works:
Station 1 is where new hulls are inserted.
![Image]()
You have to pay attention to get the shell in the holder but it is easy after a little practice.
Here is what the turret and resizing dies look like:
![Image]()
On the far left is station 1. On the downstroke a shotgun mop cleans and oils the empty resizing die. A new shell is inserted then, on the upstroke, the shell is partly inserted into the resizing die.
Station 2 deprimes and resizes on the downstroke by forcing the hull fully into the resizing die which has a resizing ring at its base. The brass is fully resized right down to the lip. Very slick. The hull is reprimed on the upstroke. You push the handle all the way back and there is good feel as the primer seats. If you pay attention you will know that the primer has inserted and seated properly from the feel. Primer seating depth is easily adjustable.
Station 3, charges powder bushing on downstroke, drops powder on the upstroke. The Spolar uses Hornady powder and shot bushings. They fit into a very nicely machined charge bar that operates very easily and smoothly. Both powder and shot charges are very consistent. So far the Hornady bushings seem to throw charges that are pretty much right on the money using 700x and Universal powder and #9 hard shot.
Station 4, Manually insert wad in pop-out wad holder, then tool inserts wad and drops shot on the downstroke, recharges shot bushing on the upstroke. Wad seating depth is easily adjustable. Simply unloosen the lock nut by hand, turn the drop tube and retighten. I love this setup.
Station 5, pre-crimps on the downstroke. Also easy to adjust.
Closeup of stations 3,4,5:
![Image]()
Station 6, main crimp on the downstroke. The main crimp die is spring loaded and adds a little resistance to the downstroke. Also easily adjustable.
Station 7, radius crimp on downstroke, partly ejects shell from resizing die. Also easy to adjust and very positive. No crushed, wrinkled or creased hulls so far.
Station 8, ejects shell from machine on downstroke.
Results:
![Image]()
![Image]()
All of these various brand cases were loaded with 15.5g 700x, various brand wads and 7/8oz hard 9 shot. All of the crimps are perfect or just slightly dished and no adjustments were made whatsoever after I setup the first shell which was a WinAAHS.
Conclusion. Best made reloader on the market. Easiest to use and adjust compared to MEC and Dillon, the only other shotshell loaders I have used. Excellent results and speed. Tool easy to maintain. I have disassembled it almost completely, stopped only by loctite. Virtually any part can be replaced with ease and even a total rebuild would be easy in a couple of hours. The only spare parts I intend to order are the rubber shot and powder seals; I don't see anything else that might break or wear out in the forseeable future. So far no powder migration.
Steel base hulls are a question. They are significantly harder than brass base hulls to insert and release from the resizing dies. MEC's collet resizer is an advantage here. Will steel base hulls put undue stress and wear on the Spolar dies and other parts? Don;t know yet. Spolar says their tool can do millions of rounds. The steel base hulls I have loaded so far were fired from an auto with sloppy chambers. My O/U does not require resizing brass hulls and it may be the same with steel. If so, the Spolar may not have a problem after I shoot the steel hulls in the O/U.
Bottom line is that I am very pleased with the Spolar and do not regret spending the extra money at all. In my situation I needed a single tool that would accept gauge changes so I did not have to line up 4 MECs to cover all the skeet events. I simply do not have room for 4 MECs.
Here is what you install to change the gauge plus the appropriate wad fingers and Station 1 shell holder:
![Image]()
With a little practice this job can be done under 5 min.
There are probably a few points I forgot to mention so if there are any questions, let me know.
Here is a photo from the front:
This loader is very nice looking and obviously well made. The gold parts are anodized aluminum. The main turret is black anodized aluminum but the remaining black parts are steel. The loader is quite heavy, 50lbs+.
I did not get the hydraulic option. Too expensive and I have no where to fit that equipment. Plus I could not stand the constantly running motor. ATS is coming out with an electric drive system for this loader and I will look into that if I feel I need more speed.
The base is 13.5"x8". Height is 31". You need a lot of depth. The primer tray is 22" deep from the front of the base and you need a full 33" to open it fully. You don't have to open it fully but it is harder to fill if you can't. I am thinking about hacksawing the primer tray in half because it interferes with a tool called a CasePro that I use to resize 38Super cases for my target pistol. Primer capacity is 400 but I could live with 200. You also need a solid loading bench since a flimsy bench would be rocking around as you push/pull the handle. The handle sticks out 12.5" from the bench when in the down position if you mount the tool flush at the front.
One annoying feature is that loaded shells eject very low:
I refuse to cut a big hole in my loading bench so I am using a cookie tray to catch the loaded shells. The tray holds about 100 shells and works fine. Note that the ATS electric drive unit raises the Spolar up several inches which would eject the shells high enough to use a much bigger bin to catch the loaded shells. That's another reason I refuse to cut a hole in my bench since I may get the ATS later.
Here is the tool setup to load and with the turret full:
I am right handed. Right now I put the hulls on the left and wads on the right. You must hand feed hulls and wads. After running a Dillon with a casefeeder for a few months, feeding cases sucks but I will get used to it. You can also put the hulls and wads on the left side and reach across to insert the wads. I am using two hands on the downstroke but it is easy with one hand, much easier than my Grabber. Speed is faster with one hand on the handle and the other hand feeding hulls and wads but it is fast enough for me using two hands on the handle which slows down wad feeding.
Another annoying feature is the primer feed system. It is not a true gravity feed, instead it uses a small, noisy vibration motor to "buzz" the primers into the track. The vibration also settles the powder and shot I suppose. Fortunately, the buzzing motor only runs for a second at the bottom of the downstroke but my wife can still hear it in the TV room 50 feet away.
Here is the primer setup. The buzz motor is just under the tray and the switch box is at the bottom of the frame:
Here is how the Spolar works:
Station 1 is where new hulls are inserted.
You have to pay attention to get the shell in the holder but it is easy after a little practice.
Here is what the turret and resizing dies look like:
On the far left is station 1. On the downstroke a shotgun mop cleans and oils the empty resizing die. A new shell is inserted then, on the upstroke, the shell is partly inserted into the resizing die.
Station 2 deprimes and resizes on the downstroke by forcing the hull fully into the resizing die which has a resizing ring at its base. The brass is fully resized right down to the lip. Very slick. The hull is reprimed on the upstroke. You push the handle all the way back and there is good feel as the primer seats. If you pay attention you will know that the primer has inserted and seated properly from the feel. Primer seating depth is easily adjustable.
Station 3, charges powder bushing on downstroke, drops powder on the upstroke. The Spolar uses Hornady powder and shot bushings. They fit into a very nicely machined charge bar that operates very easily and smoothly. Both powder and shot charges are very consistent. So far the Hornady bushings seem to throw charges that are pretty much right on the money using 700x and Universal powder and #9 hard shot.
Station 4, Manually insert wad in pop-out wad holder, then tool inserts wad and drops shot on the downstroke, recharges shot bushing on the upstroke. Wad seating depth is easily adjustable. Simply unloosen the lock nut by hand, turn the drop tube and retighten. I love this setup.
Station 5, pre-crimps on the downstroke. Also easy to adjust.
Closeup of stations 3,4,5:
Station 6, main crimp on the downstroke. The main crimp die is spring loaded and adds a little resistance to the downstroke. Also easily adjustable.
Station 7, radius crimp on downstroke, partly ejects shell from resizing die. Also easy to adjust and very positive. No crushed, wrinkled or creased hulls so far.
Station 8, ejects shell from machine on downstroke.
Results:
All of these various brand cases were loaded with 15.5g 700x, various brand wads and 7/8oz hard 9 shot. All of the crimps are perfect or just slightly dished and no adjustments were made whatsoever after I setup the first shell which was a WinAAHS.
Conclusion. Best made reloader on the market. Easiest to use and adjust compared to MEC and Dillon, the only other shotshell loaders I have used. Excellent results and speed. Tool easy to maintain. I have disassembled it almost completely, stopped only by loctite. Virtually any part can be replaced with ease and even a total rebuild would be easy in a couple of hours. The only spare parts I intend to order are the rubber shot and powder seals; I don't see anything else that might break or wear out in the forseeable future. So far no powder migration.
Steel base hulls are a question. They are significantly harder than brass base hulls to insert and release from the resizing dies. MEC's collet resizer is an advantage here. Will steel base hulls put undue stress and wear on the Spolar dies and other parts? Don;t know yet. Spolar says their tool can do millions of rounds. The steel base hulls I have loaded so far were fired from an auto with sloppy chambers. My O/U does not require resizing brass hulls and it may be the same with steel. If so, the Spolar may not have a problem after I shoot the steel hulls in the O/U.
Bottom line is that I am very pleased with the Spolar and do not regret spending the extra money at all. In my situation I needed a single tool that would accept gauge changes so I did not have to line up 4 MECs to cover all the skeet events. I simply do not have room for 4 MECs.
Here is what you install to change the gauge plus the appropriate wad fingers and Station 1 shell holder:
With a little practice this job can be done under 5 min.
There are probably a few points I forgot to mention so if there are any questions, let me know.
