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Welcome to SGW ! ! {hs#

There are no SN/dating records for Stevens firearms, but the logo on the side of your Model 107's receiver/frame was only used from 1916 through 1960.

I would lean more to the earlier side of the time span for your gun.

 

Dang I should have joined these forums earlier! I've spent hours searching to try and figure out the model number, thank you!

I have read on various posts that these older shotguns often aren't chambered for the more common 2-3/4' shells we have today, is that correct with the 107? Last I used it years ago when I had no knowledge of such things we were shooting 2-3/4" target loads with it, glad it didn't go "boom"! :shock:

It does have some light rust in the chamber itself but the barrel is clean as can be

 

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Since the production run of the Model 107 was both before & after the 1926 change from 2-9/16" chambers to 2-3/4" chambers, I would suggest measuring the chamber length from the rear of the rim recess to the rear of the forcing cone.

As you already know, 2-3/4" unfired shells will readily chamber in the short chamber, but if fired in a short chamber will have no room for the crimp to unfold w/o impeding the passage of the shot charge.

 

Roughly what measurement would I be looking for in order for 2-3/4" shells to work? I'm guessing around 3"? I should have a dowel around the size needed to fit in the chamber.

Also any tricks to get rust out of chamber? I tried some hoppes #9 and a brush on a cordless drill and it didn't do much..

 

With the name J. Stevens Arms Co. the gun is from WW-I to 1946 and I'd suggest the earlier part of that time frame. The No. 107, the automatic ejector version of the No. 105, was introduced by the J. Stevens Arms & Tool Co. Here it is in the J. Stevens Arms & Tool Co. Catalog No. 54 --

the last big catalog they issued. New England Westinghouse bought the company for war production and rechristened it J. Stevens Arms Co. After The Great War NEW sold J. Stevens Arms Co. off to Savage Arms Corp. which continued to operate J. Stevens Arms Co. as a separate entity through 1946. Here is the No. 107 from the J. Stevens Arms Co. 1919 catalog --

The gun is a 12-gauge and would have been made for 2 3/4 inch shells. For the first thirty years of the 20th century 2 9/16 inch was the "Standard" 16-gauge chamber length. The "Standard" chamber length for 20-gauges was 2 1/2 inch.

Chamber depth is considered to be the distance between the breech end of the barrels and the joint between the chamber body itself and the forcing cone, which reduces down to bore diameter. This is loosely based on the length of the "Fired" shell. Today, theoretically when the crimp opens on the shell being fired the end would land at the junction of the chamber and cone. Prior to WW-II many companies had the practice of holding the chamber about 1/8 inch shorter than the shell for which it was intended. Fly in the ointment is nominal measurements often differ from actual ones in both chambers and shells. A very good method I have found of measuring chambers without much outlay of cash, and is quite accurate enough for virtually any situation, is a common 6" flexible machinist's scale which you likely have. Hold the barrels with muzzles toward a light source, not necessarily a concentrated one a window is great, while looking into the breech and the cone will be thrown in a shadow. May have to move the barrels around a little until it is distinct. While still looking into the chamber simply slide the scale in until you observe the end coming flush with the shadow line & mark position of breech end with your thumb. Remove and read the scale. I usually repeat this a few times to insure I am getting a consistent reading, but you will be amazed how accurate this can be done. While I own a Galazan chamber gauge, I use this more often than not. The chamber body itself has a taper of about .005" per inch. Sometimes chambers were cut with slightly worn reamers giving a slight undersize chamber. If the chamber is a bit undersize a gauge made to "industry" standards will not go in to the true depth of the chamber. A.H. Fox Gun Co. shotguns are known for having tight chambers. The machinist's scale method can be more accurate.

 

Also any tricks to get rust out of chamber?

I tried some hoppes #9 and a brush on a cordless drill and it didn't do much..

Buy/use a chamber flex hone, following the instructions (it's used in a power hand drill).

Click/scroll down to chamber hones:

http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c2=6

.

 

With the name J. Stevens Arms Co. the gun is from WW-I to 1946 and I'd suggest the earlier part of that time frame. The No. 107, the automatic ejector version of the No. 105, was introduced by the J. Stevens Arms & Tool Co. Here it is in the J. Stevens Arms & Tool Co. Catalog No. 54 --

the last big catalog they issued. New England Westinghouse bought the company for war production and rechristened it J. Stevens Arms Co. After The Great War NEW sold J. Stevens Arms Co. off to Savage Arms Corp. which continued to operate J. Stevens Arms Co. as a separate entity through 1946. Here is the No. 107 from the J. Stevens Arms Co. 1919 catalog --

The gun is a 12-gauge and would have been made for 2 3/4 inch shells. For the first thirty years of the 20th century 2 9/16 inch was the "Standard" 16-gauge chamber length. The "Standard" chamber length for 20-gauges was 2 1/2 inch.

Chamber depth is considered to be the distance between the breech end of the barrels and the joint between the chamber body itself and the forcing cone, which reduces down to bore diameter. This is loosely based on the length of the "Fired" shell. Today, theoretically when the crimp opens on the shell being fired the end would land at the junction of the chamber and cone. Prior to WW-II many companies had the practice of holding the chamber about 1/8 inch shorter than the shell for which it was intended. Fly in the ointment is nominal measurements often differ from actual ones in both chambers and shells. A very good method I have found of measuring chambers without much outlay of cash, and is quite accurate enough for virtually any situation, is a common 6" flexible machinist's scale which you likely have. Hold the barrels with muzzles toward a light source, not necessarily a concentrated one a window is great, while looking into the breech and the cone will be thrown in a shadow. May have to move the barrels around a little until it is distinct. While still looking into the chamber simply slide the scale in until you observe the end coming flush with the shadow line & mark position of breech end with your thumb. Remove and read the scale. I usually repeat this a few times to insure I am getting a consistent reading, but you will be amazed how accurate this can be done. While I own a Galazan chamber gauge, I use this more often than not. The chamber body itself has a taper of about .005" per inch. Sometimes chambers were cut with slightly worn reamers giving a slight undersize chamber. If the chamber is a bit undersize a gauge made to "industry" standards will not go in to the true depth of the chamber. A.H. Fox Gun Co. shotguns are known for having tight chambers. The machinist's scale method can be more accurate.

Thank you for the wealth of information! I'll be sure to use that machinist's scale trick

Also any tricks to get rust out of chamber?

I tried some hoppes #9 and a brush on a cordless drill and it didn't do much..

Buy/use a chamber flex hone, following the instructions (it's used in a power hand drill).

Click/scroll down to chamber hones:

http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c2=6

.

Thanks CriscoKid! No matter how many tools I acquire there's always something to add :lol: