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Tempered (?) Lead Shot

2.7K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  Mnshooter  
#1 ·
About thirty years ago, I experimented with "tempered" lead shot. This was about the same time that E. H. Harrison was writing about head treating lead bullets in The American Rifleman.

The shot in question was "butter" #4 chilled shot of an unknown brand. This shot was very soft. I could easily flatten its pellets with a needle-nosed pliers using just the pressure of my thumb and index finger. The patterns that were generated with this shot were disappointing. The load that the shot was used in was a 10 gauge black powder load that used roughly "bulk for bulk" with the shot and Goes Ffg black powder and Remington cases, primers, and plastic wads. The loads were fired from a friend's Damascus-barreled Parker double that apparently was choked "full" in both barrels.

Taking my lead from Harrison, I heated the shot in an oven that was set for 400 degrees F for approximately thirty minutes. After the thirty minutes of heating time was over the shot was taken from the oven and it was immediately poured into a bucket of cold water. The treated shot was then taken out of the water and placed on sheets of newspaper to dry.

The resulting shot did not look like much. The shot had lost its graphite coating in the water bath and it now was a dingy gray color and was rough to the touch. When the shot was tested for hardness, however, the result was dramatic. I could now only make the slightest mark on the shot's pellets even when very heavy hand pressure was applied to it using a standard pliers. Lacking a supply of powdered graphite, I lubricated the treated shot using a generous amount of WD-40.

When the shot was loaded into its customary gun/cartridge combination the results were also dramatic. Exact pellet counts were not made but if the 40-yard patterns that this gun and load were not at or near 100% they were pretty close. I have never seen patterns that had the combination of density and evenness that these loads generated when heat-treated shot was used.

Has anyone else experimented with heat-treated lead shot? If so, what were the results?
 
#2 ·
It was "Chilled" shot to began with.
You essentially "chilled" it again.
Since pure lead at room temperature is above the "softening" temperature of lead, it will slowly return to its "unchilled" state.
Compare it a bit to steel at a high enough temperature that it too, softens.
If you want hard lead, that stays hard, you have to alloy it with the correct other metals.
 
#4 ·
Thanks Bob.
I have been in metals, virtually all my life. Welding, tooling, pressure testing, NDT, etc.
Enough to be classed as a Senior Engineer in two Nuclear Weapons plants, prior to retiring from the first after 29.5 years, and 9.5 more years at the second one.

That, plus a life time in firearms use, experimentation, etc. Yep I still have both eyes and all my didgets, at 76 years.

And only destroyed one barrel, accidentally, along the way. That at about age 13. :roll:
 
#5 ·
I don't actually believe any PURE metals can be heat treated. Most of the terminology we use, like anneal, temper, harden etc come from work with steel. Technically steel is an alloy primarily of of iron, nearly always SOME carbon, and a host (chromium, molybdenum, silicon, manganese, copper. lead, etc) of other things. Pure iron has a certain hardness and I don't believe any amount of heat treating will change this. Lead is the same way. When you start mixing pure iron with all these other things you can get quite a variety of different crystal structures that have various hardness at various temperatures. Many of these various structures are created and destroyed at various temperatures. You mix various other metals (most often antimony) with lead and it starts to behave more like steel. It can be heat treated.

I am guessing that what the OP had was shot that was a lead/antimony mixture. It may have been labeled "chilled" but was likely cooled slowly from its molten state. It was relatively soft. What he did was take this lead/antimony alloy and make actual "chilled" shot. This would make it harder. I believe that a specific ratio of lead/antimony mixture can be treated to a specific hardness. No amount of treating will make it harder. A mixture with a different lead/antimony ratio can be heat treated to a different (possibly higher) hardness.
 
#6 ·
Fascinating insights!

From the discussions, I can now see why the old "chilled" shot was chilled by blasts of cold air before it hit its cooling bath.

Given how soft ("unchilled"?) "chilled" lead shot currently is, especially in the larger sizes, I wonder whether my "re-chilling"(?) of that long-ago batch had any overall merit and whether anyone else has tried anything like what I did.
 
#7 ·
They use use tempered wheel weights for cast bullets in centerfires and I have used birdshot for bullets. My favorite 30-30 bullet is a tempered bullet for which I place the bases in a water pan after hardening and reanneal the noses. Very effective on the deer I shot with it. There is a company called lead Bullet Technology that has a system for pouring pure lead on the nose of WW for tempering. the company founder cashed in on that principle.
OK. Pure lead does NOT heat treat. To heat treat lead it muct contain arsenic. Arsenic is placed in shot to assist in making it round. Back in the 1600's an individual named Prince Rupert developed a lead screen for making shot and claimed that you needed "poisened lead" or arsenic to get round shot as Watson discovered in the first shot towers. The addition of antimony and tin also assist in hardness and roundness. A tempered WW will go from a Brinnel hardness of about 10 up to about 30. They have been able to get these loads shoot accurately up to 2500 fps. Magnum birdshot is supposed to contain 6% antimony for small shot. It has a Brinnel of maybe 15, equivalent to the "hardcast bullets tehy sell) so hardening it in that manner would likely give very hard shot. Other than being a PITA for volume loading it should work. By the way Brinnel hardness is a scaler measure like temperature, 20 B is NOT twice as hard as 10B.
DP