I've never had the problem.

 

What kind of oil did you use?

 

Too much oil and not enough drying time.
If you apply a new coat of oil over a previous coat that isn't quite dry, that previous coat will never be totally dry. The crud you're dealing with is partially dried oil.
Clean the crude areas thoroughly and start again. Thin your oil with a litte bit of mineral spirits. Apply thin coats and let them dry thoroughly. When you think the finish is dry enough, wait at least two more days and then apply the next coat.
I'm making the assumption here that you're using boiled linseed oil.

 

If you've already used renaissance wax over the oil you may have to strip and start over. The wax will create a barrier that blocks new oil.

 

Not sure where you are located but will point out that several members have mentioned that durability of oil finishes is very poor in hot/humid climates. There are better choices that are far more resistant to sweat, sunscreen and bug spray. I've had good results using this product CHEM-PAK PRO-CUSTOM OIL GUNSTOCK FINISH another one I see mentioned a lot is Timberluxe.

 

Not sure where you are located but will point out that several members have mentioned that durability of oil finishes is very poor in hot/humid climates. There are better choices that are far more resistant to sweat, sunscreen and bug spray. I've had good results using this product CHEM-PAK PRO-CUSTOM OIL GUNSTOCK FINISH another one I see mentioned a lot is Timberluxe.

Once that Timberluxe bottle is opened, you have to remove the air or the remainder will harden, so if you are going to do several stocks, do them all at once. One helpful idea is to store the bottle upside down so hopefully it wont totally harden. The folks at Timberluxe forgot to mention that and I lost 2/3 of that tiny bottle

 

Oil finishes are pretty, but urethane finishes actually protect wood. I’ve got several guns with the Pro Custom Oil finish and they look great.

 

My DT-11 gets a wipe down with Howard's Feed and Wax after shooting in this 95 degree weather with humidity in the 80%

 

I did a hand rubber oil finish on my beretta 690 when new, 18 months ago. it came out great. This summer I have been getting alot of crud right where I grip the gun with my right or trigger hand. I get less on the forend, but get it there also. In the past I would use a little Dawn dish washing liquid in distilled (bottled water) to wash this gunk off. Then let it dry and apply Renaissance wax. This worked great in the past

This year I end up with dull areas, and more glossy areas, etc. where the crud was. The rest of the stock is fine. Well maybe not as nice as before. After the regular clean up and waxing did not work as it had before, I added a couple coats of oil and then REN wax.

What is going on? How do I make this better. I was thinking of cleaning it with mineral spirits, then finishing with a couple coats of oil, let dry, then finish with the Ren wax.

only thing I can think that is different is the oil sat for months so I shook it up real well, but maybe it is just not any good any longer.

HELP.

Please provide all known details of the oil finish that you used.

 

Used the Pro Oil on a LC.Smith last month like it. Timberlux is also a great product.

 

What is Pro Oil? I've used, and concocted, a lot of finishes over the years. Never heard of Pro Oil.

 

GunSavr ProCustom oil. Basically a wiping urethane. Lots easier to work with than TruOil, drys faster. Easier to build depth. Cures a bit faster. Lots to like. Brownells offers it in liquid, aerosol, and even a mixture that can be sprayed with a paint gun

 

After stripping and oiling with plenty of cure time between. I have had great luck with butchers wax I carry my 870 and my 1963 20 ga deer guns through the harshest areas. Thorns, ice, snow and rain and it never scratches, never gives up its finish. I just clean and add another coat of butchers wax and it looks As good as new. I do the same with all my duck guns. All of which are older guns from as far back as the ‘50’s. I know people think the wax will fog up but it doesn’t.

 

I don't see where anyone mentioned shooting gloves. The salt from your sweat and grit from the air will eat through any wood finish. (And bluing). Easy solution.

 

I’ll read it. I looked on their website and couldn’t find the MSDS sheet.

 

This is a link to the discussion re: Howards...

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/howards-feed-n-wax-and-others.494768/?post_id=4483152#post-4483152

 

thanks!!! Couldnt find what I was looking for

 

I did a hand rubber oil finish on my beretta 690 when new, 18 months ago. it came out great. This summer I have been getting alot of crud right where I grip the gun with my right or trigger hand. I get less on the forend, but get it there also. In the past I would use a little Dawn dish washing liquid in distilled (bottled water) to wash this gunk off. Then let it dry and apply Renaissance wax. This worked great in the past

This year I end up with dull areas, and more glossy areas, etc. where the crud was. The rest of the stock is fine. Well maybe not as nice as before. After the regular clean up and waxing did not work as it had before, I added a couple coats of oil and then REN wax.

What is going on? How do I make this better. I was thinking of cleaning it with mineral spirits, then finishing with a couple coats of oil, let dry, then finish with the Ren wax.

only thing I can think that is different is the oil sat for months so I shook it up real well, but maybe it is just not any good any longer.

HELP.

YOU HAVE AN ACIDIC FINGER PRINT? I USE BALLISTOL ON EVERYTHING AND IT CURES SMUDGES FWIW