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White Flyer 'Blackout' targets

14K views 24 replies 15 participants last post by  twohigh  
#1 ·
Are there any reports on these regarding effect on grass or landscaping? We've avoided the bio targets to date for several reasons, one of which is we don't want to turn our skeet fields into a desert scape. Wondering if the blackouts are better or different in that regard.
 
#2 ·
Lawry targets [ http://www.lawryshootingsports.com/ ] has bio targets that won't hurt the grass. Matter of fact, all their targets are bio's. Many won't buy them because " they're harder to break " is the first whine, or they're made in Canada. I run the shotgun venue for about 12 years now and Lawrys are a buck a box cheaper. A truck load - 1400 boxes - means a big difference to us. Anyways, give him a call and ask about his targets. Tell him Paul sent you.
 
#3 ·
I believe we tried Lawry some time ago. They didn't agree with our machines, very high breakage rate. I wasn't involved with the test so I don't know if they adjusted machines for shoulder heights or made any other adjustments.

Blackouts are supposed to be $3/box less than pitch. Worth looking at, but not if its going to require extensive lawn care treatments.
 
#7 ·
bladesmith said:
The pitch is what kills the grass. A machine adjustment might have been in order to stop the breaking.
This is incorrect.

Pitch targets are basically inert, at least when it comes to vegetation.

It's the sulfur binder in Bios that kills the grass, and if the Blackouts use the same binder they'll kill the grass just the same.
 
#9 ·
John H said:
That is my understanding as well Ian. I think the solution is regular application of lime, but I don't know that for sure.
It is, but I'm not sure how it could be done well since you have particles all the way from dust to full pigeons sitting on the ground, so the attendant acidity is going to be all over the map by square foot. Making the soil too basic won't allow the grass to grow either. It might be OK if you go over the target fall zone with a lawn mower and chop everything up to a relatively uniform size first. Seems like a lot of work and additional time and cost at any rate, and still doesn't ameliorate the trap damage the dust causes in moderate to high humidity environment...

At the end of the day, the ONLY reason to use sulfur based targets is because you are governmentally mandated to do so, as is the case with a handful of clubs. Buying them because you save a buck or two a case is a false economy and extremely short sighted, unless you aren't worried about your club looking like a barren wasteland.
 
#11 ·
kyskeet said:
The sulphur binder was also very hard on the traps (rust). Machine maintainence must be diligent in keeping target dust off of them.
What type of Maint.? I have a couple of Traps of my own and use Bio's because they are easy to come by (local Wal Mart) when I need a few cases.
 
#12 ·
hopper810 said:
What type of Maint.? I have a couple of Traps of my own and use Bio's because they are easy to come by (local Wal Mart) when I need a few cases.
Everything rusts. Seals dry out quicker, Bushings dry out quicker... Everything just breaks down quicker. Imagine taking a back of fertilizer and just pouring it over your machine. If that analogy doesn't work, imagine battery acid.
 
#13 ·
Need to be diligent as to blowing dust off of trap, not letting it build up over time. It won't take long to see effect if you let it buildup over time. We've never used them at my club however another club I've shot at tried them when they first came out. They stopped after one load of targets due to the effect on the grass. The killing of the grass can be remedied with lime application.
 
#18 ·
At the clubs I frequent I've only seen orange targets...including only occasionally, black rims with orange domes.

This post is the first mention I've seen of the phrase "Blackout Targets". I don't give any thought to the composition of what's in the trap, as long as they fly.

I likely have shot bio targets, as now that it's mentioned, I have seen targets turn into whitish smoke when hit. Are the blackouts the same thing with just black color added to make solid hits more aestheticlly pleasing?
 
#21 ·
Sorry this is so late, but just noticed. For those of you in the Rocky Mountains, acidifiying the soil might not be a problem. Much of our soil is very alkaline and it is nearly impossible to acidify it to grow things like blueberries and rhododendrons. In the Rockies, there are virtually no botanical circumstances where you need to add lime to soil, as we have so much already.

To know if you're basically safe to use the bio or blackout targets, you'd need to test your soil pH, which is not hard to do. Check you local Extension office.
 
#24 ·
T-Pee said:
I guess I'm lucky. No grass = no wildfires in summer and fall. Also makes range maintenance easier not having to mow.

tp
Except soil with an acidic pH will cause the lead to start leeching into the ground, which is something you don't want, esp in CA...