Are you sure? I bet there are holes that are just covered up. Look closely for 2 small "disturbances" in the face of the pad where screws would be pushed through. If not, the pad was glued on and that would be a mess to remove. I have never had to do that so will not comment on proper technique.

 

I have found well concealed screw holes by dragging my thumb heavily across the recoil pad.

I have cut off a recoil pad with a hacksaw blade because the screw heads were so damaged, the screws could not be backed out.
I stoned the rake off the hacksaw blade teeth and cut carefully, right next to the wood.

 

How did you deal with removing the shank of the screw that remained in the butt after cutting the heads off the screws?

 

Thanks for help, pushed screwdriver in same position as Miroku plastic butt screws and found the 2 screws, flat headed

 

How did you deal with removing the shank of the screw that remained in the butt after cutting the heads off the screws?

I won't speak for booknut, but I have used two different methods: (1)carefully fixture it in a mill and center drill the offending screw stub - with a left hand drill if available - then use an appropriate screw extractor, or (2) using a Dremel and a thin cutting disc, put a new screw slot on the stub and back it out with a screwdriver. This second method is only practical in wood, and where something is going to cover the slightly damaged surrounding area. HTH.

geo

 

I didn't deal with the remaining screw shank.
Fastener holes are not all located in the same spacing, in recoil pads.
I drilled new holes for the pad I was installing.
If I needed to remove the screw shanks, I would leave 1/4 inch of shank above the wood.
Some screws are very hard to cut with a hacksaw. This approach may not suit all problems.