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Yildiz oil finish - gotta fill the pores to do justice to the wood

3.7K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  Acer2428  
#1 ·
I found the text below via the search engine: have not posted here in a long time, so open to suggestions re the query below. Dave H had directly hit the topic in 2020. Regardless, always appreciate good advice ...
Dave Holmes said:
Nor will the wood be anywhere near the quality of the ProStar. I'll gladly suffer a few hours of wet sanding for the difference. I really like the way the ProStar moves. I like the triggers. With a proper finish, the near exhibition grade stock will be a stunner. Obviously, nobody can speak for the durability of the guns at this point. And, while for some, 4K seems like a lot of money, in the target gun world, it isn't, especially for one with a $1500 wood upgrade included in the price.
Dave H - a question please, from this older post: I now have in the mail, an engraved Yildiz pro star special .... and agree that the only fault in the (spectacular) wood I wish to correct is lack of pore filling; I can do a mirror sheen with oil, and have that on Perazzi, B25 and did those from bare wood - BUT, I'd prefer not to strip the Yildiz existing finish and start over. Could you advise me of your wet sanding technique? ie grit& paper grade, and presumably done wetted w. oil - and hand rubbed to fill?? TIA Garth
 
#2 ·
Filling the pores must be done before you apply the finish or WHILE you apply the finish, it cannot be done after the finish has cured.

By wet sanding, he is referring to sanding the stock directly after the finish has been applied, while it's still wet, which creates a slurry of finish and sawdust which fills the pores.

If you want to fix the problem, you have to strip it back down to bare wood.
 
#3 ·
Thx Skeet_man,
You've painfully reminded me of that which I already knew .... and was hoping for an easier way out :)
I've a chum who is progressively refinishing a multicoat enamel finish on a Rolls - and unrelenting wet sanding in that case equates to leveling the finish vs pore filling.
I thought that the post search located by Dave H had inferred a technique closer to 'leveling'.
 
#5 ·
Wet sanding is a painfully slow process over several cycles of finish application. Wood filler/sealer is available. I will be buying Aqua Coat grain filler for my next stock project. I expect a $35 tin of it will last a lifetime for stocks.
 
#8 ·
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i just refinished mine. I didn’t do any of that wet sanding. I probably would have, now that I read about here. I sanded mine down to bare wood. 220, 400, then 600 grit. Then 4 coats of tru-oil followed by about 8 coats of minwax wipe on polyurethane. Polished with simichrome and then a coat of renaissance wax.
 
#10 ·
This thread and IA_Buehler inspired me to refinish the stock on the (new to me) Yildiz I bought. Stock had apparently been professionally refinished, but I could tell there was beauty left underneath. I ended up bleaching the stock (ignore mis-matched forearm), wetting/drying with heat gun to 320, using aqua coat pore filler, then wet sanding 400-800 with a final oil coat of Minwax Antique Oil, then 800-1500 and two final coats over that 24 hours apart. Some Minwax paste wax just to get it ready for the range.

Slapped it on IA_Buehler's gun since my trigger is off getting made into a setback.
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