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Panzer Arms PA37 review and thoughts

10K views 16 replies 5 participants last post by  Wallyboy1206  
#1 ·
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It’s a Turkish shotgun, what could possibly go wrong?

Like the old saying goes hope for the best and prepare for the worst. Perhaps a clue as to how things will go was when 2 days after I paid $390 it was on sale for $325 and now MidwayUSA has it even cheaper at $299. And those bastards would not adjust the price and no returns. Anyway, putting my anger aside I was excited to get my first ever shotgun and even more excited it is a “clone” of the famous Ithaca 37. The PA37 looks like the original model 37 albeit a bit heavier with a thicker grip. The pump action feels smooth and shells loaded easily in the mag tube but only 4 shells and not the stated 5. The bead blasted nickel finish is attractive and seems durable. So far having it a month the barrel, mag tube, and heat shield are still a nice matte silver. The main receiver is turning into kind of a dirty brownish color. Using a lead removing polish cloth the receiver cleaned right up. I used some renaissance wax after the cloth for an added layer of protection.

The stock and foregrip are solid Turkish walnut and the black color is uniform on both. The wood to metal fit is not seamlessly smooth but is a solid tight fit. At the range the the PA37 shoots where you point it. The trigger pull is about 9lbs with no slop and there are 3 interchangeable chokes, full, modified, and cylinder. The choke tubes are labeled with dash marks but using the Paul Harrel dime fit test it’s easy to determine which tube is what spread.

After the first 10 shells the reality that this is a Turkish shotgun set in. The bolt would not lock with certain shells, other times after firing, the shell would become stuck in the chamber and the PA37 becomes exceptionally difficult to pump. Often the slide would lock but the slide release would be stuck and not release. That’s an issue if you need to clear the chamber without firing. Lastly the recoil pad is like the original Ithaca and offers very little recoil absorption. After those first 10 shells I had a bruise and my shoulder was a bit tender in spots. But I’m also a big baby and should have held the PA37 tighter.

So me being me, and a garage gunsmith at heart, I took it all apart. It disassembles just like the original 37 (except for one part). The bolt that holds the stock on is a 12mm metric and not a 3/8 like the original bolt. Once apart I noticed the slide disconnect was roughly finished and uneven. The yoke slip was too tight, the barrel notches for the bolt extractors were rough, one of the two screws that held the recoil pad on spun freely in the stock, and the extractor teeth were a bit notchy. Another observation was that the chamber was a bit rough and sticky feeling and the magazine follower needed to have the diameter of the magazine spring opening expanded to allow the magazine spring to seat properly. That cured the issue with only fitting 4 shells in the tube. Now it holds 5 properly. I removed all the notches and rough spots, polished all the integral parts including the chamber, cleaned, lubricated and reassembled. And then off to the range. Oh and I changed the recoil pad to a Limbsaver Classic Precision Fit model 10013 that, with some customizing of the screw holes on the pad, fits the stock perfectly. Now after shooting no bruise on my shoulder.

After all that the PA37 ran like a well put together piece of equipment. I did notice that using Fiocchi Field Dynamics Steel Dove shot causes the shell to stick in the chamber making the PA37 very difficult to pump the action. The issue has only been with that one particular shell. Remington, Federal, Winchester, and even Fiocchi Defense Dynamics 00 buck shot functions with no trouble.

So just when I was basking in the enjoyment of having a worthy Ithaca 37 clone I encounter a potentially fatal design flaw on the PA37. A part called the right positive shell stop came loose. Not just loose it broke the peened metal lip edge of the post that held it in place. This is where the design flaw comes in. On the genuine 37 the part is held in with the trigger housing and on the Turkish PA37 it was pressed fit into the receiver. This part naturally wants to back out from the natural cycling of the gun. Press fitting the shell stop post to the receive only holds the post firmly but the shell stop itself (based on this Turkish 2 piece, post and shell stop design) is held in place by a very thin peened metal lip. After about 200 cycles of live and dummy shells the abuse was enough for the part to fail completely. To say I was crest fallen was an understatement. Without this part the PA37 is relegated to being only a single shot because without it shells are not able to cycle out of the mag tube properly. For those that are unfamiliar with the part here is a basic description. The part works like a cantilever. Holding and releasing a shell is operated with the pump. When the pump is pulled back the bolt inside the receiver pushes down one side of the shell stop and this stops the shells from loading more than one and jamming. Then when the pump is pushed forward the bolt inside the receiver pushes forward on the opposite end of the shell stop allowing a new shell to ready for the next reload. Using a punch and hammer I removed the post from the receiver. With a dremel, took off some material from the shell stop to allow the post more room to be peened. Then reattached the shell stop to the post and peened it. Now the shell stop can move freely on the post.

After reattaching the shell stop to the post I needed to figure out how to attach the part to the receiver. The goal was to make the PA37 better and figure how to attach the part like on the original Ithaca. The genuine part is shaped to have a portion rest against the trigger housing. After some bending and a little metal tape for some extra bulk on the PA37 part the issue is solved. It is now held in with the trigger housing like the original Ithaca 37. After function testing 100’s of times with dummy rounds it was off to the range for a real test. At the range I ran 34 shells through it without one issue. I shot everything from Winchester to Remington to Federal to Fiocchi and all types from birdshot to buckshot to slug. I even threw in some mini shells. They don’t cycle properly and get flipped around when chambering. If you hold the PA37 upside down when cycling the mini shells will mostly work without having to align them manually. I was very happy to have it working and more importantly working properly and reliably. It does have some oomph with certain shells but the new recoil pad I added makes a huge difference compared with the stock pad. It is a blast to shoot and it is shooting with no issues…so far.

Panzer Arms PA37 pros and cons:
Pros
  • Classic Ithaca 37 design
  • All steel construction
  • Turkish walnut furniture
  • 3 Interchangeable choke tubes included
  • Disassembly and reassembly is identical to the genuine Ithaca (except for the right shell stop)
  • Customer service is excellent. I sent an email about the broken part on Sunday and Nick from Panzer Arms had a replacement part in the mail the next day and I received it on the Wednesday.

Cons
  • Disconnect was uneven and roughly finished
  • Chamber was rough and sticky feeling
  • Magazine follower to narrow to seat the magazine spring properly
  • Positive shell stop poorly designed and a fatal flaw without a proper fix

Conclusion:
If you are looking for a reliable out of the box, shoot everything shotgun, in a classic trench style the PA37 is not for you. You will be better served with a mossberg 590 retrograde. However, if you are someone that doesn’t mind gambling and have some aptitude when it comes to basic gunsmithing, and you really want an Ithaca 37 clone then the PA37 maybe worth a look. Just hope for the best and be prepared for a Turkish shotgun.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I just bought one of these,.waiting for it to arrive. Do you have any pictures of the failed positive shell stop, and the repair you did?
Thanks
Hi engineer.white. I am happy to share some info as to my experiences so far with the PA37. The version I have is the nickel with black walnut. I can tell you many of the parts when compared to genuine Ithaca 37 parts are thicker and not interchangeable with the Panzer. I have had 2 major failures. The first was the positive shell stop. On the genuine 37 the part is held in with the trigger housing and on the Turkish PA37 it was pressed fit into the receiver. This part naturally wants to back out from the natural cycling of the gun. Press fitting the shell stop post to the receive only holds the post firmly but the shell stop itself (based on this Turkish 2 piece, post and shell stop design) is held in place by a very thin peened metal lip. After about 200 cycles of live and dummy shells the abuse was enough for the part to fail completely. I contacted Panzer Arms and they responded quickly and sent a new part to me within a week. While waiting for the replacement part I went about trying to make the broken part better. Using a Dremel I made a divit on the shell stop arm where the post extends. I then peened over the remaining edge of the post. Now the shell stop arm is attached to the post and can move freely. Because the shell stop was pressed fit in to the frame, after I removed it the shell stop was no longer able to be held in to the frame with friction. So now similar to the genuine the shell stop is held in by the trigger guard. I put I slight bow on the shell stop and that makes a nice snug fit.

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The other major failure I experienced was the small arm on the slide that engages the disconnect broke off. Again, Panzer was quick to respond and send a replacement part within the week. I believe the issue was the inlet on the butt stock where the tang and that arm fit into was not wide enough. I used the Dremel with a sand wheel and made the inlet wider. With the new slide and wider inlet I fired over 100 shells, all slugs (Thats all my range allows) and everything is running. I have since replaced the butt stock with a Choate synthetic butt stock because it fits me better. I have a note on the stock at the end of this long winded reply.
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There were two other issues that prevented a smooth range trip. One is shells would get stuck in the chamber after firing. Especially Fiocchi and Sellier and Bellot shells. But Hornady and Federal would stick at times. In some cases the shells would be so stuck making it impossible to cycle the pump and needing to remove the barrel to remove the spent shell. I tried cleaning and polishing the chamber and it did help improve extraction but some shells were still sticking. The next thing I tried was I honed and polished the chamber with a flex-hone 12 gauge chamber hone. That helped with shell extraction after firing across all brands of shells I use.

The other issue I was having was certain shells seemed to not fit deeply enough into the chamber preventing the slide from fully closing. This was mostly with Hornady, Fiocchi, and Sellier Bellot shells. Both slugs and bird shot. All Federal, Winchester, and Remington mostly ran without any fitting issues. I removed a slight amount of material, by slight I mean the sanding wheel on the Dremel barely touched the chamber head but did touch it just enough. Now all shells fit into the chamber and the pump can close and fully lock the bolt in place.
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If you intend to swap the butt stock just note the size of the bolt is M6-1 with a 12mm socket head. From what I have seen most butt stocks made for the genuine Ithaca 37 including a the genuine Ithaca butt stocks I tried will fit. You will need to get a longer stock screw to attach any non Panzer butt stocks. As I mentioned I did replace the Panzer butt stock with a Choate synthetic one for the better fit for me. Last think I can think of non genuine Panzer forends will not fit. They will be too narrow and the Panzer forend is shorter than most genuine ithaca and aftermarket ithaca forends.

I hope this helps. I wish you good luck and happy shooting.
 

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Discussion starter · #6 ·
Any updates on your experience with this shotgun?
Hi CPLHicks. The PA37 has been working with no problems or hang ups since I remedied the issues just over a year ago. In that time I have put about 200 rounds of slugs from various makers through it. I just had it at the range a few days ago. The nickel finish still looks great.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Thanks for your reply. I've been trying to decide between these, an RIA TPAS, vintage 37s, and Winchester Model 12s. This helps to know.

What kind of Choate stock did you put on?
I got the Choate Mark 5 traditional stock black synthetic. I ordered from MidwayUSA. That’s also where I ordered the PA37 from. I did end up getting two genuine Ithaca 37 after the PA37 gave me the taste I was hooked. To fit the stock to the PA37 you will need a new longer bolt.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Awesome write up. Does it slam fire? But for 300 + shipping and transfer fees, I will probably just keep looking for an older 37 someone gets rid of without knowing how desirable they are. I’ve missed out on several by being too slow in the 300-400 range.
No slam fire on the Panzer. You can’t go wrong with an older genuine 37. So long as the barrel is straight with no dents. I did get a 1952 Ithaca 37 in 12 gauge and it feels great and shoots great. It’s a bit worn looking but it runs and functions like new. Ithaca’s before 1967 I think slam fire.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
The same….but different. I ended up getting two Ithaca’s. A 1952 I was able to get on the cheap because it needed barrel work and a 1976 Deerslayer with 20 inch barrel. All the shotguns, the Panzer and the 2 Ithaca’s are in 12 gauge. All have been cleaned and polished. Here is my take:

The 1952 has a smooth action with no rattle. The trigger has no take up or creep and a nice consistent break. The 52 with its steel and wood furniture has a nice heavy solid feel, but not bulky. This Ithaca will slam fire.

The 1976 Deerslayer has the synthetic stock and fore grip so it feels slimmer and a bit lighter but solid. The action is not as smooth as the 1952 but still opens and closes with little effort. The trigger is not quite as tight and crisp as the 1952. It is still very decent with no take up but there is a small bit of creep before the break. The 1976 will not slam fire.

The PA37 feels a bit heavier than the Ithaca. Not by a huge amount but slightly. The grip part of the wood stock is thicker and the fore grip is shorter. The PA37 rattles and feels a little bulky when compared to the Ithaca. The action is comparable to the deerslayer. It’s not quiet smooth but it opens and closes with little effort. For fun I like to cycle the pump(with no shells loaded), point the barrel up and release the slide disconnect to see how easily and smoothly the pump releases and travels. The PA slides open and travels just as easily as the Ithaca’s. The trigger is not heavy and doesn’t have take up but does have creep before the break.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Thank you. I went to look at four Ithacas last week in a shop. The oldest ones by far felt better. Much smoother action and the forend rattled less, which you think would not be the case eith hesvier use and age. The newest one they had was from the sixties. The pump was not as smooth and it rattled more. I think the oldest was from the 1939 if I am remembering the serial numbers correctly.

I had the same experience with a Winchester Model 12 the other day. The one from 1924 felt a bit smoother than the one from the 1960s, but was clearly used quite a bit less. I only went with the 1960s one because of the grip angle on the stock was easier on my wrist.

Still kind of kicking myself for not buying the 7-round blued Deerslayer last week.
you don’t see the seven rounders much. The only potential drawback of the older Ithaca’s is the barrel is mated to the receiver. After 1963 or serial number 855,000 the barrels are interchangeable with any receiver.