These oem pads were ground to fit. And the damage to this one is not repairable. It's not likely you are going to find a NOS unfitted pad to replace this one. How exactly did this happen? I did do some checking on the internet and this one may be usable, but you will need to check the dimensions of the pad and the spacing for the screw holes. If you decide this will work, be sure to use your old pad screws with the new pad, to keep from tearing up the holes the screws are threaded into (different wood screws have different thread pitches). F325 Deluxe Shotgun & Rifle Pad | Pachmayr Field Pads

 

It happened when I was attempting to remove the second screw to remove the recoil pad. It seems as though this pad has never been removed, because the screws did not come out easily. I was only using a Philips head screwdriver, as I’ve seen on several instructional videos.

 

I broke the white spacer on mine from the 1970s and they are no longer available. Had to trim to fit another spacer.

You can likely get a replacement pad that you won’t have to grind to fit. I think Limbsaver or Pachmyer is where I got one for another 1100 I have. They had a set of templates that could be printed and you could match to your stock. It won’t be OEM, but will be easier than a grind to fit.

 

JB weld or gorilla glue that puppy and wipe the excess off with a damp rag while you search for a replacement. I’ve had great success with Limb Saver. I always loosen both butt-pad screws first when removing the butt pad, I wonder if you left the one screw tight while removing the other.

 

This was my initial thought, but was not sure if JB would hold up to recoil, or if that’s something that I would even have to worry about. I have never come across this issue before, and I didn’t know if there was any risk of damaging the stock in any way if I put a cracked recoil pad on and shot the gun.

 

AirTech Precision-fit Recoil Pad

Reducing felt recoil by up to 70 percent for most rifles, shotguns and muzzleloaders.

limbsaver.com

 

Is there any possibility that a gunsmith would be able to make the existing pad work? I already have to take the gun in to get the nut for the recoil spring off. Tried flathead screwdriver and various sockets, but to no avail. I don’t have access to an impact at home, and I’m assuming it needs some force and jolt to break it loose.

 

Possibility is very high. I thought you wanted to fix it at home. A real gunsmith could fix that while you wait if they are not super backed up with work.

 

Glue it.

 

As others have suggested, gluing should be sufficient. If you are still concerned, you could inlet and glue a washer in the pad base around the screw hole. Doing so would certainly hold it together. Use a black glue and the crack appearance should be minimized.

 

As far as the frozen nut goes, spray it with a penetrating oil like PB blaster. Maybe it’s just corroded at little on the threads. Just cover your wood stock up. Plus I think it you strip the receiver down and remover your link fork you gain access to the threads right?

 

Nope.

 

Doesn,t hurt a bit to put a bit of Never seize on threads when reinstalling that nut. Get some Black 5200 in tube and squeeze into that cracked pad backer, open it sightly to get some in between sections, than clamp and let it sit for a few days. When reinstalling those butt screws a bit of liquid dish soap on threads or in screw hole makes for an easier job and an easier rtemoval next time around.

 

Goodness, that's an easy fix. Don't panic.

It could be as simple as some thin superglue, then pressing the hard plastic backing onto a perfectly flat surface, like a piece of waxed paper and a glass table. Hold it down flat for 5 minutes.

If there are some holes visible from the sides, and you're super fussy, fill those with some epoxy filled with black phenolic plastic (or acriglas, which is the same thing) or epoxy and black pigment...like the scrapings from a watercolor set. It's not structural.

It'll probably only last you another hundred years, and then you can have a new pad ground.

 

I fixed a break similar to that myself. I used Acraglass gel, dyed black. I used a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut slits across the break and sunk small steel pins to reinforce the epoxy joint. It's been a few years now and has held up fine.

 

cbgraham's suggestion is a good one, the bit from Brownell's is the way to go.

if you decide to replace the butt pad, there are also several for sale on eBay that purport to fit. didn't see the white spacer, though.