Put a quarter in a bench vise so it sticks up only the exact amount needed to fully seat in the choke tube. Put a piece of paper or some tape between the vise jaws and the end of your barrel to protect the finish on the end of your barrel. Hopefully the close fit between the vise jaws and the end of your barrel will prevent the quarter from bending as you apply force. Take a strap wrench and wrap it around the barrel to give you some leverage. Have an assistant hold the barrel vertical while you turn on the wrench. Be careful that the strap wrench does not mess up the rib on your barrel as you apply leverage.

If it works then great. If it does not work and the quarter gets bent then it only cost you 25 cents, assuming that you already have all of the other things needed.

 

heat - more than a hair drier - and a kroil soak seem to solve most problems eventually.

The trick with any tool is keeping it from slipping and shearing the ears off the tool. If you can get a tool that you can get a chunk of threaded rod through you may be able to put a threaded rod through the bbl with a fender washer over the breech and then snug the tool up into the choke so it can't possible slip and strip. Once you've moved the choke even slightly you should be able to remove the rod.

I have heard of epoxying a socket into the choke tube and then using a socket wrench to turn out the tube. Then dump tube and socket into boiling water and recover the tube. Better grades of epoxy will withstand boiling water so you may have to heat it up more than that to melt out the epoxy.

The ez-out type tool should work, I'd have to believe it would ruin the choke though. For the price of the tool or the choke a gunsmith with a proper tool could take it out for you. Then make sure you use choke tube grease regularly so you don't have to pay him again.

 

Most gunsmiths only charge about $10 to $15 IF you haven't already buggered up the slots.

 

100 straight makes a hefty looking choke remover that as they put it:

Removes severely stuck tubes without damage to choke or barrel. Rod fits through barrel; heavy spring pressure clamps head into tube notches. Hex-end head lets you use a wrench for lots of leverage to easily unscrew the tube. Adjustable; works with any length barrel. Comes with one of four heads.

Not the cheapest but I'll bet it works well.

 

Here's a do-it-yourself tool.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthr ... hoke-Tubes

 

100 straight makes a hefty looking choke remover that as they put it:

Removes severely stuck tubes without damage to choke or barrel. Rod fits through barrel; heavy spring pressure clamps head into tube notches. Hex-end head lets you use a wrench for lots of leverage to easily unscrew the tube. Adjustable; works with any length barrel. Comes with one of four heads.

Not the cheapest but I'll bet it works well.

I have the full set, awesome device and has yet to fail.

I made a short barrel adapter and had mandrels made fit 16 and 20ga guns.

Sent from my furloughed Obama phone!

 

If you plan to let it happen repeatedly, by all means buy the tool. But if one time teaches you a lesson, it will be cheaper by far to go see a gunsmith.

 

Got it! Used a combination of penetrating oil, heat, a better tool I fabricated,and tapping the barrel for a few minutes. It moved when I applied pressure in a clockwise direction. Never would have made it without the advice I received here.
Virginian, based on my life history I probably will do it again. At least I seem to have repeated a lot of mistakes in life! However for now I have resolved to "go forth and sin no more."

 

If you plan to let it happen repeatedly, by all means buy the tool. But if one time teaches you a lesson, it will be cheaper by far to go see a gunsmith.

I have never had a stuck choke. I have removed quite a few though. I charge $20 to remove a stuck choke, more if I have to use my lathe.

I also give each person a $1 tube of versa-chem anti-seize, only had one guy come back the following yr.

It is a very preventable situation, if you're not lazy or monitor choke creep with large lettered steel shot.

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When I was fixing guns I filed out the hole in several choke wrenches to accept an impact driver. Never ran into one Kroil and that wouldn't handle. I had a can with Kroil in it and I would just stand the gun in it muzzle down for a couple of days. Had to fish out a couple of beads and re-glue them though. The number of guys who wouldn't even check their tubes for years just amazed me.

 

When I was fixing guns I filed out the hole in several choke wrenches to accept an impact driver. Never ran into one Kroil and that wouldn't handle. I had a can with Kroil in it and I would just stand the gun in it muzzle down for a couple of days. Had to fish out a couple of beads and re-glue them though. The number of guys who wouldn't even check their tubes for years just amazed me.

It would be nice if they still offered a choke tube wrench capable of modifying these days. Plastic or pot metal.

Sent from my furloughed Obama phone!

 

For penetrating oil, nothing beats a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. I drizzle a little on the joint a couple of times a day for 3 or 4 days, then warm the barrel to uncomfortably hot with a heat gun. My tool is a 3/8" drive socket of appropriate size that I ground to make ears to fit the slots. I use a 3/8" drive impact tool, breaks the tube loose with no damage. Clean everything up, lube with Never-sieze, and put 'er back together. Done! GW

 

One more reason to use extended chokes

 

I don't think anything beats Kroil. I generally try to avoid mixing chemicals.

 

All good comments and thanks again for the help. My biggest problem was the very narrow slots in the 20ga Colonial tube. I had difficulty finding something to serve as a wrench that would not distort. Grinding a 3/8 drive socket is a great idea that I did not think of.

 

The choke demon looks like the best thing I have seen but it is pricy! looks like I am going to have to purchase it but logic says it should work looks like it is really well made

 

Look at using a Rem Choke tool as it is already made to accept a 3/8" ratchet and or impact tool.....